millsryno Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 On the thermostat screw' date=' Is it left to lower temp? later[/quote'] NOOOO. Don't make the mistake I did. You actually turn it to the right (clockwise) to lower the temp. I'd recommend a 3/4 turn of the screw and test from there. It is very tempermental and 1/4 turn will make about a 25 degree difference or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 Ryan' date='I forgot to ask if you were putting virgin plastic in the pot or heating it in the microwave first? If you are dumping raw plastic in about how long does it take to get it up to temp?[/quote'] I put virgin materials into the pot. I did not time it the first time because I was unsure it would work, but would guestimate it took 30-40 minutes to heat to plastic. In the microwave it takes me 8 minutes or so to heat 2 cups, so with the amount of plastic being heated all at once, it is a little quicker with the pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 Also I notice that pots has the non stick finish on it' date=' how does that work? does the plastic come out pretty easy? or does it still stick?If it comes out easy DONT scratch it up at all other wise it will start sticking. [/quote'] I was not paying too much attnetion to this, I only poured one batch. I had no problem whatesoever getting the remaining plastic out, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 I suspect that the plastic is cooler near the outside surface of the pot. Insulating it might help the mixing quite a bit. If you were not using a mixer this may be a problem. But the mixer does so well that this is not an issue. My temp gun showed about a 5 degree difference from teh hottest part of the batch and the coolest. The heating element in on the bottom outside edge of the pot. Thanks for the leading (or is it bleeding) edge ride into this topic. We're all blessed by your sharing. I have to be quite honest with you guys. I had thoughts about keeping this to myself. Pots have always been one of those type of things that "seperate the men from the boys". Not many guys have them and not many guys are willing to share info on them. The cost is prohibitive to many people. I was kinda thinking I could keep this to myself and give myself a big advantage over anybody who could not afford one. F that, though. Sharing is what this website is all about! I just hope that everybody is as willing to share their info, too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 Sweet job Ryan... How are the sticks you made??? Comparable to your others in the cups?? They are aaaaaaallllmost as good. I mix my plastic after every single stick pour when I do it by hand so the consistancy is perfect. Once I get a better mixer blade they will absolutely perfect. I am interested in the clean-up as well. I know that Sta-warm is now offering a deal where they will coat the inside of your pot with teflon for an extra $60. That may be the ticket for these Fry Daddy's as well. I don't have anything to compare it to other than pyrex. Pyrex is easier, but I had no problems with this pot, either. IMO, before I spent $60 on that coating, I'd try one of these units. I think you will like it just as well. Just curious, do you do any other baits than sticks??? I am wondering if you can get a good thin flow of plastic for the small spots in the molds. Also is your flake staying mixed well or is it going to the outside of the pot as well?? Jim, I only poured sticks. You can get as thin of a flow as you want because you don't have to open the valve all the way. The flake was staying mixed well. Out of 200+ sticks I poured, 3 of them had a little too much flake in the compared to the rest. None had a lack of flake. Great job!!! Thanks for sharing your trials with us so we can be on the fast track for building one of these. Thanks! Just don't forget to share your ideas and changes with the rest of us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 Thanks for seeing the true greatness of this forum Ryan!!!!!!!!!! I do ahve to say this though...I think pots help but I am still not sure that a pot or 2 separates the "men from the boys" in hand pours. I do have a Sta-warm but I will be honest, it doesn't seem the same making my baits with it. Do I use it...YES!!!! But only for single pours and simple bait styles. Everything else goes through the mic...cup...pour system for me. Check out some of Als Worms some time and tell me that a few pots are going to get you there....Pots help increase production, especially if you are doing sticks but "hand pouring" is an art. I have done some Aaron's magic sticks for a guy or some Armistad Specials (blue head, redbug body and chartreuse tails). There is NO WAY you are doing those with a pot or 2.... OK...off the soap box and back to the shop ! You truely have shown and told more than many would Ryan. Thank you from one hand pourer to another! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lure_learning Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 Nice job and thanks for sharing! My only concern on this setup is the heat traveling up the mixing blade into the drill press motor. I'm not sure what temperature the motor seals are rated for. Just something to look into and or keep in mind. The question I have for StaWarm is, do they sell replacement parts that don't rust! I have been meaning to contact them regarding this and will do so soon. Thanks again and good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 Check out some of Als Worms some time and tell me that a few pots are going to get you there....Pots help increase production, especially if you are doing sticks but "hand pouring" is an art. I have done some Aaron's magic sticks for a guy or some Armistad Specials (blue head, redbug body and chartreuse tails). There is NO WAY you are doing those with a pot or 2.... You are absolutely right. I was thinking from a production standpoint. With sticks it's all about keeping your plastic consistant and producing them as fast as you can. Once you are good at it, the quality is just there and is not something you have to think about...it just happens. Chris's worms were my orignal inspiration! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 lure_learning you wont have to worry about the heat travilng to the motor. the motor is on the back and the chuck is ran by pulleys and belts. If you are concerned about it run a like PC case fan to the motor or to the chuck. The bearings wont get hurt if it gets hot either Delw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 Here is an awesome tutorial on how to tap a spigot. I used 3/8" plumbing for mine. The only suggestions I'd make other than what is in this link is: 1) make sure you get the spigot as low to the bottom as you can. my drill bit actually scraped the bottom just a little. Nothing that JB weld can't fix. 2) I liked the valve turned how I have it much better then how they have it. 3) They are using the Presto Kitchen Kettle. It has a 1.5 gallon capacity. I used a Presto Fry Daddy with a much smaller capacity. The Fry Daddy allowed me to make over 200 5 1/4" stick baits. This includes my remelts. I just trim them and throw them back into the pot. No problems at all. Edit: Here is the right link http://www.candletech.com/budgetmelter/index.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lure_learning Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 I guess I didn't look at the pictures that well thanks Del. What is the RPM range of that press? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 What is the RPM range of that press? There are 5 settings for the RPMs: 570, 900, 1390, 2050, 3050. It comes set at 3050 out of the box and needs to be adjusted. I set mine up at 570 and may try the next batch at 900. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 One thing when useinga drill press the bigger the dia of the drill or stirr the less RMP'S you need to go. Ryan if you use a bigger stirrer make sure you go slower If Too slow is to fast Then you can either buy another pulley to put on the spindle end( a smaller pulley) or get a varible speed motor and put a varible speed controler on it( like we talked about in previous posts 1000 rpms on a 1/2 dia s very slow however you put 1000 rpms on a 3-8" dia and the thing loks like it flying and can be very dangerous ie whipping plastic around hot plastic and even throwing the drill press off balance. so make sure you have everything tighted down TIGHT. Delw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 How long did it take to make those sticks Ryan??? I am sure you were waiting on molds to cool plus assembly and dissasembly. Just curious on the time as I know you were cranking them out!!!! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 Jim it is real hard to answer that because of all the crap I had to do. I was going in and out of the shop doing stuff. I'd just let it run for a while and come back. I'd guestimate it took 2 hours, BUT, I had a learning curve of about 30 minutes and was dealing with a partially clogged spout I removed half way through the pot. I was pouring with 50 cavities at a time, so that helps speed things up. When I started I was only getting about 1 good worm per 5 cavities. After I got the hang of it I was getting 4 good worms per 5 cavities. A little more practice is needed. I'm going to clean out my gargage this weekend and rearange the shop. I'll pour a pot straight through and time it and let you guys know as soon as I get a chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 While I was at Home Depot I looked at the fittings and the drill press. The only thing they don't have is a big enough tap for any of the brass fitting sizes. I did notice they had a drill press that you can put your own drill (or old mixer from your wife's baking days..) It was only like $24... The largest tap they had was 3/8 which isn't even big enough for a 1/4 fitting. The guy tried to convince me that the 3/8 tap would work for a 3/8 brass fitting... He even put them next to each other and told me they would work...ha..ha... Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 Jim, check out that link I posted. you want the first two pieces they have. It is a 3/8 male/male piece and a 3/8 valve found in the sprinkler area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 Hey Ryan...those parts were easy to find...but I would have no way to thread the fitting into the wall of the cooker. I almost bought the stuff to experiment but I just don't have the time to take away from pouring right now. I have a buddy that has some taps. I'll check his stash out and see if I can find a big enough one... I did buy the drill press for my Sta-warm pot and it worked like a charm. I do have to get a different stirrer paddle set up though as the flake does still like to settle out a little to much. Not bad though.... Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 Did you get the $24 press? Let's see a photo of how it works Oh, you couldn't get the tap...misread your post. I had to get mine at Ace Hardware. You have to make sure it is a plumbing standard thread or something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 how wide across is that fry daddy cooker at its narrowest place? Monty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 how wide across is that fry daddy cooker at its narrowest place? It apears to be 6 1/4" wide at the narrowest spot (right above the base stand). The base is 6 1/2". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 I ended up buying the same $99 drill press you did Ryan. My drill would not have a slow enough speed so I just bought the one you did. I may get the cheal one to experiment with as I might try to use my wife's (old???) mixer. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 found this mixer blade that might mix the plastic the best http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=DRYWALL MIXERS&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=8438915310&SDesc=Two 5" Wheel Drywall Mud Mixer i use one in my line of work and it mixes very well Monty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 Yeah Monty, you might be right. I had thought about one like that and now that I read the description it's probably a good one. "Lower wheel cuts upward and upper wheel cuts down" I think it's probably too big though. I need to find a small one like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 upper wheel can be moved down towards the other if need be. it has a set screw on the top mixing wheel. Monty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
