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kidlizard

Polyurethane on Plaster?

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Hey John,

Just my 2 cents worth here on the poly..............

It works great, but patience is the key. Here's the "one week" process I use: :lol:

Day 1: Spray the top side, then give it another coat a few hours later until it turns a yellowish color, all the while tipping the mold back and forth to prevent puddling. Wait 2 days.

Day 3: Flip it over and repeat the process on the bottom. Wait another 2 days.

Day 5: Give the top side another good shot. You don't need to repeat the process on the bottom of the mold.

Day 7: You're ready to pour.

It sounds like a pain, but if you use a rotation process, you can kick out molds at a pretty good rate.

A couple things to keep in mind...............

You have to be pretty liberal with the polyurethane. I use about a half can per mold; sometimes more depending on the size. Also, you will need to respray your molds from time to time; usually after every 500 baits or so. Keep a few cans of poly on hand and you should be in good shape.

Hate to horn in on Ryno's question, but I've had my share of hard times with plaster and polyurethane. :lol:

Give a shout if you have any problems.

Chris

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One more thing I forgot to mention...........

if you live in a high humidity area, you might need to wait another day or so in between coats. 70 to 80 degree weather is ideal for making plaster molds. Don't be in a hurry to pour over drying polyurethane. Like Ryno said, it will bubble and once that happens you might as well toss it out. :|

Chris

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Try using engine enemel by Plasti-Cote. It is good for high temps and comes in spray cans. I use it on all my plaster molds and have made hundreds of pours without recoating. It can be purchased at Wal-Mary or any auto parts store. Cost is $3 - $4 and a can will paint several molds. It usually takes 3-4 coats with only an hour or so between coats. Have built , painted and poured in the same day!!!

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