wantsome Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 I have a bunch of bomber long a's painted up and I'm unsure of what clear coat to use. Thier painted with Createx so I need something compatable. Right now I'm leaning twards Flex Coat because its goes on thinner then Devcon. I want a clear coat that can handle some abuse but not affect the action of the bait. I'm exploring all my options as of now. In a prevoius thread someone had mentioned a rattle can clearer or even acrylic. Can someone elaborate on these two as for the pros and cons? Whats the best way to go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cranky Fish Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 Wantsome, Here is my secret. If you want a hard clearcoat that will stand up to the abuse without the added weight or aggravation of all theses epoxies everyone here swears buy: Polyurethane is the answer. Go to the hardware store or Wally World and buy high gloss polyurethane clearcoat. Do not buy the quick dry. Make sure your lip is still completely covered and grasp the front of the lip with a clothespin. Dip your lure and hang by the lip to dry for 24 hours. Redip the lure and hang for another 24. I have had no problems losing my clearcoat or any paint damage. This is a less time consuming and more even finish then you will get with the epoxies and drying wheels. If you question the strength of the finish, call a local marine and ask what bass boats are finished with. Sorry that this post may ruffle a few feathers, but not everyone likes to jump in the same boat and share one paddle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wantsome Posted March 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 I like the idea of dipping rather then the drying wheel. But in order to coat a Bomber Long A I would have to submerge the lip because of where it's located on the lure. The lip is located below the nose of the lure. Any sujestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackjack Posted March 8, 2006 Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 I don't know of any bass boat that is finished with Poly, maybe an old wooden boat but modern bass boats are finished with an epoxy gel coat(thixotropic polyester coating) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cranky Fish Posted March 8, 2006 Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 Baked on polyurethane finish. Wantsome, as long as the lip is covered you can submerge the entire lure. The poly will dry on the tape covering the lip. After it's completely dry, remove the tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
count draculure Posted March 8, 2006 Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 Blackjack is right. Bass boats are finished with an epoxy gel coat. It is more similar to Devcon (epoxy) or Envirotex (reactive polymer) than the polyurethane stuff you buy at Wallyworld. I have experimented with many different paints and clear coats. Polyurethane could be an ok finish as long as the lure doesn?t see any severe use such as rocks or musky teeth. There are two-part urethane finishes also (Imron); but even they don?t compare in hardness or abrasion resistance to a catalyzed epoxy finish. The only baked on polyurethane I?ve ever heard of is a powder coat finish. If the poly works for you, that?s great! I?ve even used it myself as a barrier coat between the color coat and the epoxy topcoat. But for sheer toughness it?s not at all comparible to epoxy. Wantsome, Flexcoat is a good topcoat, or if you are interested in a dippable finish, PM Swede here on TU and talk to him about the propianate finish he uses. (it?s like the finish Rapala uses on their lures) Da Count Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wantsome Posted March 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 Thx for the responses people. I've been doing alot of searches and reading up on clear coats. I'm kinda leary about polyurethane. Mostly because not many people seem to indorse it. Although I may try it in the future. I'm kinda strapped for cash because I'm out of work. So I dont have much money to experament with. I think I'm gonna try Flex Coat first since I read it was lighter then Devcon. I'll try Devcon if it dont work out. I'm hopeing one of them work and dont affect the action of the lure. Bomber long A's are pretty boyant so I'm thinking a little added weight shouldnt hurt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaddoxBay Posted March 8, 2006 Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 I don?t think the polyurethane you can get at Wal-Mart or a hardware store will be as tough as an epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wantsome Posted March 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 Maddox, I like that Brim or sunfish lure you have. Out of all the lures in the photo section thats one of my favorits. How did you get that stripe pattern down the side with the netting? I aslo read you used acrylic what brand of paint did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaddoxBay Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 The bars are done with a stencil over the netting. I use regular Createx and a devcon topcoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael merrill Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 Polyurethane has several different issues concerning finish, not the least of which is printed on it's own label.NOT INTENDED FOR CONTINUAL SUBMERSION OR USE BELOW THE WATER LINE. Nuff said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebsboy Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 I'm a real newby here, but for what it's worth, have you ever tried Future Acrylic Floor Finish? I don't know how it might work in a commercial setting, but I've messed around with it with some good results. Again, if I'm off base please don't humiliate me too badly. JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtrs5kprs Posted March 11, 2006 Report Share Posted March 11, 2006 Flexcoat gives you a nice easy to work with finish. Biggest issue is drying time. Check out some of the Decvon vs Etex vs FC vs the rest of the clearcoat world posts from a couple years back for LOTS of good info on clearcoats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wantsome Posted March 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2006 Thx for the advise dtrs, I've learned so much over the past couple of months just from doing searchs and I've only scratched the surface. There is alot of info on clear coats and it seems like everyone has an opinion. From what I read all clear coats have thier advantages and disadvantages. Devcon Etex and Fc seem to be the most popular on the site. I'm gonna start with one and if I dont like it try another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cranky Fish Posted March 12, 2006 Report Share Posted March 12, 2006 Michael Just so you know: Minwax Clear Gloss Polyurethane has no such note on the container. I guess if you were to worry about continuous submertion I would suggest not storing your tackel box in the lake! I have lures almost two years old now that I fish religiously that look like I just finished them. It bothers me that no one on this site actually thinks that someone else might have their own ideas that could be useful to others. If there weren't many different ways to meet the same end, we wouldn't enjoy the plethora of lure manufacturers we have today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter Posted March 12, 2006 Report Share Posted March 12, 2006 It bothers me that no one on this site actually thinks that someone else might have their own ideas that could be useful to others. That is not the deal here. We welcome all thoughts and ideas. But, you can also expect someone to either expand on or challenge your ideas and experiences. It is all part of the forum. Especially if you are going to discuss clearcoats. Personally, I have found quite a few of the forum participants to be rather abusive and violent toward clearcoat discussions. That is why I never voice my opinion on the subject. Skeeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtrs5kprs Posted March 12, 2006 Report Share Posted March 12, 2006 Yeah, Skeeter was the recipient of some pretty ugly and definitely unnecessary follow-ups in those previous clearcoat threads. sad to think you can't exchange ideas and info without getting piled on. I have stated before that he is THE man on devcon. If I could get his results with devcon I would never use flexcoat except on rods. Sadly, I have had bad luck with the glue, so FC it is for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael merrill Posted March 12, 2006 Report Share Posted March 12, 2006 Skeeter....I knew there was something about you I liked! :grin: Cranky, This forum has different opinions all around.I have apologized to a few whom I have accidentally offended with careless statements and will continue to take such measures, but you are wrong.PERIOD. Here's the deal... if you leave a soda can full of product on a table finished with only polyurethane,that can WILL leave a discolored ring in that place.Under the exact same circumstances, Devcon or the clearcoat that I use WILL NOT be affected the same. I am a professional woodworker ,and it just so happens that I have in my possession one Minwax polyurethane can AND I QUOTE "BLAH...BLAH...BLAH...Interior use only".I assumed that one can extrapolate the notion a little further and understand that means inside the home.I guess if yer fishin' on the 'ol Playstation you'd be covered! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted March 12, 2006 Report Share Posted March 12, 2006 heres the answer guys. whatever works for you. that should do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cranky Fish Posted March 12, 2006 Report Share Posted March 12, 2006 Hello Michael Figured you couldn't resist chiming in again. As for the soda can, generally I let my lures dry and cure before I fish them. As for the ring, I generally fish with my lures in the water and not on the counter. I've been a custom cabinet builder since I was 15. Before you get smart, I worked after school and all weekend. Oh by the way, I'd take you on the Playstation and I will put my lures up against yours any time! Like Skeeter said, this is a heated topic and it's probably best if we let it go. I'm sure that you're happy with your clearcoat and I will stand behind mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael merrill Posted March 13, 2006 Report Share Posted March 13, 2006 Cranky, I made a poor approach in a previous thread a few months back,one which your original entry here resembled very closely, by dismissing the knowledge base here.I was simply wanting to know why anyone would use protection that was not meant for outdoor furniture, let alone fishing lures.On a whole,this forum has some very experienced fellas.They will share plenty of helpful information if you let them.We all make mistakes from time to time,myself included. I, also speak from experience, having tried poly in the past.My point was to show how water affects polyurethane.The integrity was also compromised severely once the clear was abused by rocks,laydowns,etc.Poly also has the tendency to tear off in large chunks(foil-sided esp.) as opposed to smaller chips,which I prefer.If you attack me,expect a counterattack.I don't prefer that road though.If you are happy, then all is well, I was simply attempting to stop another from repeating what I felt was an earlier mistake of my own.Peace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter Posted March 13, 2006 Report Share Posted March 13, 2006 To be honest with you Cranky, I have been swinging a big bat every time that clearcoats are discussed in this forum. I have been swinging that bat for about 3 or 4 yrs. now. I truely enjoy the lively discussions that we have here on the subject. Like Dave said, the "Dark Side" has been after me for a long time. But...... they have never caught me. If you believe in what you are using then stick to it. I have tried other things for clearcoats. I am not completely closed minded. But I am still using the same clearcoat that I started with 5 yrs. ago. Nothing has beat it yet. Skeeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cranky Fish Posted March 14, 2006 Report Share Posted March 14, 2006 All is well! Just wanted everyone that has been part of this discussion to understand that I honestly wouldn't try to lead anyone in the wrong direction. Wantsome that posted the original question actually wanted to know about toothy critters. I told him I had no idea how they would hold up as I am strictly a bass fisherman. I thought that the discussion was over after the second post from wantsome. Then the bottom fell out. I respect everyone's opinion here and I only post from my own experiences. I don't have any problems with my finish even after 2 years of abuse. Just trying to help, same as the rest. Let's all just turn our back on this one. Peace Cranky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtrs5kprs Posted March 14, 2006 Report Share Posted March 14, 2006 The dark side...I like it. Skeet must have seen me wearing my hand pouring respirator! Ok, from the dark side then, in order of ease of use: 1) Devcon 2) FC 3) Etex I put Etex below FC only because it seems to be the one product that continually comes up as requiring modification, thinning, adjustment, etc. Devocn and FC are basically both apply and wait for cure, just different time frame and thickness. Devcon is no doubt the easiest place to start, and importantly, it is usually readily accessible in most areas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
