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Predator Bass Baits

Lee production pot question (Now using it )

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Weasle,

what plastic are you using ? I am using cal.

I have to have it up to 9 when full and down to 7.5 when half full, and it still will not pour a straight continous stream, I have not used salt in it but use .35 flake

I have even taken the rod right out trying to see if it would pour a steady stream and it wont continously, gets clogged with flake I guess, I stired it every min. or 2 depending on the size mold I used. it will take 2 min. to pour a 7 1/2" deep lizzard with a flat fat tail.

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I mix with a drill press. Bought the cheap one from Home Depot and set it up with my drill.

I pour all the rest of my baits with pyrex cups. That being said, I am practicing with the Sta-warm to fill the rest of my molds that way.

I am just so used to the cups it is hard to change!!!! Plus, I have so many true custom orders that I don't pour enough of one color to justify cranking up the pot.

The Sta-warm is a good bit more expensive than a Lee Pot but the results are there also. I can leave mine cooking plastic for hours without any or much burn. I have been able to just dispense the pre-warmed plastic into my cups and pour from there. It saves a lot on the heating in the microwave.

With more practice, most of my baits will come from the pot but I do enjoy pouring them by hand!!!!

Jim

PS I am using M-F super soft plastisol and run the big flake through sometimes with no issues....

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Hey Tr21

Are you using the small pot? What's the stock # of it from LC?

I use 3 of the extra large pots at a time and have no problems the pour spout is bigger on the extra large pot.

These are the exact steps I use.

1. Wipe the side walls, inside bottom, and spout down with scent or worm oil, no puddling. This helps in removal of the plastic when done.

2. Heat plastic up in the microwave completely, 20 seconds before I put the plastic in the pot, I turn the pot on while in the lowest position, add the plastic. (Make sure you have a good thermometer)

3. Gradually turn the heat up while watching the thermometer, I add my coloring and flake now. I use a whisk (egg beater) to stir my plastic, put the handle between your hands and rub them back and forth. I leave it in the pot at all times. It takes about 20 minutes to get the plastic up to proper pouring temp the final setting is usually around 5 to 6 (280* to 320*)

The pots are very touchy each one is diferent.

I use LC plastic.

I have poured .062 flake with no problems

I sent you a email and PM not sure if you got it.

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I think it is #111, it is the smaller one. It will only pour a straight fast stream right at burning point, had it pouring great and bam 20 sec later it was over, :lol: I do not have a cander therm yet but have a ratec gun that has worked great for me. I can only pour even out of a cup around 350

I will be getting a candy therm next time I try it.

I did get your messages, sorry I have been busy.

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With the Lee pots you also have to adjust the temp control for:

1) Adding the plastic...when straight out of the microwave it will increase the temp of the plastic already in the pot, and will increase the tendency to scorch if you don't ride the temp down. Of course, you then have to run the temp back up once things have stabilized.

2) Volume changes...as the volume of plastic changes in the pot, so should your temp setting. Seems obvious, but I know I missed it for probably the first 3 batches or so. Less volume = lower setting, more volume = higher.

I would also recommend using stabilizer in all colors when pouring with a pot. It is a big help.

If you are wanting to pour with salt...sticks, straight worms, chunks...try the big Lee pot. It has a larger spout and allows the salt, plastic, and flake to flow more easily. I use the little Lee pots for worms, grubs, drop-shot stuff and the big pots for chunks, sticks, swim baits. If pouring sticks or other full round molds, you can also un-bolt the pot from the stand and re-attach it "backwards" so the pot hangs over space. This lets you clamp the pot to a work surface by the base, and gives the clearance needed for the 2-piece molds.

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It's beginning to look like the plastic bait world needs a decent, inexpensive temp controller. I could do that if it's worth my while.

I'm thinking microcontroller (smarter control), thermocouple inputs (cheap and very fast and accurate), maybe more than one input, and solid state control output, either on/off, or pulsed like a dimmer.

What do you think?

jm

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