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saint308

Glitter Consistency

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I need some help. Do any of you know why when I pour my plastic into the mold my glitter is not consistent throughout the stick? I will have a lot of glitter on one side and very little on the other. Also, some ares in the worm are almost void of glitter. When I am pouring, it looks like I have a consistent amount of glitter going into the mold. I am clueless, I have tried hotter, cooler and all points in between. Thanks. Saint.

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Regardless of whether you're using a pot or pyrex, stir well. Glitter doesn't usually settle regardless of size. Stir in between reheating just in case there is any settling.
:?

My glitter settles every time if I don't stir...pot or pyrex!!! As a matter of fact, don't stir, pour a few cavities and then re-heat for 20 seconds and you will have a few globs of burned flake in the bottom of your cup...

You must stir well for consistancy of flake and/or salt. If I am making sticks in a pyrex cup, I stir between EVERY cavity. It takes a bit longer but ensures perfect sticks every time. If I am using my pot, my drill is running the whole time I am pouring and in between when I am de-molding....

Glitter has to settle in plastisol, it is heavier than anything in the plastisol so gravity is going to do its thing B) ....

Jim

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Senko sam: I am not complaining about your glitter. I have the same problem with Del's glitter, I am 100% sure it is something I am doing wrong. Please do not take offense to my post stating it is your glitter. I was only answering someone's question. I am going to try to get my camera working, and will post a pic of what I am talking about. Saint.

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I guess people must thinks it's worth it because they keep coming back. I use it all the time and like the way my lures look, plus I can duplicate anyone's color scheme to a T. Offering more colors and sizes, give everyone an opportunity to experiment, copy and honor requests for those that want custom made lures they can't buy anywhere else. It's also nice not paying ridiculous per unit prices and shipping for smaller amounts.

As I said before, I like sharing color schemes with fellow lurecrafters and send example baits with orders so people get some ideas of what certain colors look like in colored plastic. I'm more than happy if a new supplier can provide us with good product, low per unit prices and shipping, plus good service. It's a great hobby if you can afford the start-up costs.

(No problem Saint. Good question/ interesting problem. Hope you get good results from stirring, but note how much is coming over the pyrex lip when pouring. It should be a uniform amount and stay suspended in the quickly cooling plastic.)

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I have never tried senkosams glitter, but have tried Del's, M-F's, and LC. The biggest problem I have had is not keeping it from settling in the cup, but setteling in the plastic after the pour. The problem is especialy bad in one-piece molds that are large and or made of resin or plaster. The only solution to that is cooler plastic, but some molds are awfully hard to pour at a lower temp. Also, if you place your aluminum molds on top of another aluminum mold or on a cookie rack they will cool a little faster and help allieviate the problem. The .015 doesn't settle out nearly as bad as the .035 though. Is this not an issue with Senkosam's glitter? If not, I may have to switch brands.

TJ

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If your flake is settling in your molds when you pour, then I would guess your plastic must be extremely hot. Even when I pour a mold like a trick worm where the mold is not very deep, the flake is dispersed well and not all accumulated on the bottom of the mold.

I am wondering if the heat of the plastic AND the rate of the plastic going into the mold are the variables here. I.e. If you pour a slow stream, I have noticed the flake does not suspend in the bait as well as if I really pour it in fast.

Again, flake is heavier (or maybe has a higher specific gravity) than everything in the plastisol so it will sink given enough time. The hotter the plastic, the slower the cool time...the longer time the flake has to fall to the bottom or side.

Jim

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3lbs and over, free shipping. I do this only because of low demand and to get guys started who mostly want small amounts of various colors and sizes. You already know how expensive 2oz can cost through M-F (plus s/h) and it adds up. I like helping fellow lurecrafters and enjoy the sharing of info on this site (which is one of the reasons I wrote the tutorial on mold making) and the fact that all of us are specialists in a subspecialty of fishing.

Best go to M-F, Del, LC and Ozark for the best per unit cost, for larger quantities.

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