Stik Bait formulas

[TikiJoe]

Hey there. IT seems everyone has their own ideas on stik baits. Add more salt, less softener,more color.. etc... Just wondering what some of you guys add to the concoction of making stik baits, such as plastic amount,color,softener,salt... Just to help some of the less skilled(like me) out. Oh and mils, sit this out with your big spiffy mixer and melter. We're all jelous now!

[millsryno]

Hey Tiki,

I think the cencensus on the most basic stick formulas is as follows when using Calhoun's:

4 parts plastisol

2 parts salt

1 part softener

So, to make that even eaiser:

4 oz. plastisol

2 oz. salt

1 oz. softener

Make a few batches with that and see how you like them. Remember that they will feel softer right when you take them out of the mold compared to a few days later. It takes a couple days for them to fully cure. Fish these a little bit and see how you like them, then tweak the formula accordingly. I personally add a little more softener to mine. When using M-F or LC, you will have to adjust accordingly. They are all going to produce a little different of a worm. Also, depending on whether or not you are flouring your salt or the size of the salt crystal, you may want to tweak the salt content to get it just how you like it too.

As far as coloring goes, that is all personal preference and each color is going to require more or less drops. Just cook your plastic then add color to how you like it.

As far as flake is concerned, the darker your worms, the more flake you will need and vice versa. Also, the brighter flake colors, like red, need less flake than black flake. As a good rule of thumb, in a watermelon worm, I use 3/4 tsp of .040 black flake per 2 cups of plastic. I use 1/2 tsp of .040 red flake per 2 cups of plastic. If I am making a black worm, I will maybe add an extra 1/4-1/2 tsp per 2 cups.

[Dave V]

I'm strictly a microwave guy (until I finish my pouring pot this weekend).

With M-F Super Soft plastic and no softener. this will put your 5" sticks a little heavier than a senko. a senko weighs .3 oz. this will put your sticks at .4 oz.

4 oz plastic

2 level Tbsp fine salt

Regular table salt will make your worm stiffer than the fine salt and sinks in the cup much faster. a quick stir at the beginning of your pour with fine salt and pour all the way through with none left on the bottom.

Dave V

[borderbasser]

I had a question for you guys using pouring pots for your sticks. I just completed my frydaddy pot and it works great. I bought a drill press and made a stirrer and I couldn't be happier. My only question is have you guys had to alter your salt/plastic/sofner recipie to get the same quality baits as when you hand poured? I use the exact recipie in my pot as I do in my pyrex and my pot baits come out slightly less clear and noticiably harder. My stirrer works extremely well so I don't think it is a settling issue with the salt in the pot. The only thing that I can think of is I am getting less salt per bait (at least initially) with the pyrex due to settling even though I stir every 2nd-3rd stick. I guess that would cause my pyrex sticks to be clearer and softer...except for the bottom-of-the-cup baits. Has anyone else experienced the differences. Thanks.

TJ

[millsryno]

borderbasser,

I have not noticed a difference. I used to mix between every pour though so my baits were perfectly consistant.

What mixer bit are you using? ow's it working for you? I'd love to see a pic

[borderbasser]

I'll try to post a pic if I can get it to work. All I did was take two pieces of 1"X1/8" strap cut to just fit inside the bottom of the pot. Drill a 3/8" hole dead center of both pieces. Put the two pieces together in a vice up to the center of the hole and twist them. Do the same for the other ends and you should have two pieces bent into "props" that are nearly identical. I slid one up the rod about 3" and welded it and welded the other on the end of the rod with both props turned so they lift up. Both are parrallel to each other. The only problem I had was as the plastic got down to about +/- 3/4 cup, I had a hard time pouring as my spout is mounted on the bottom just inside the element. This stirrer worked so well you could actually see the bottom of the pot. Another thing you can try is to cut the ends of the props off at a slight angle ( long side on the leading edge of the props) and weld a vertical piece of the same strap to connect the top and bottom. I theory this should drag the plastic from the sides into the middle but I don't think it is necessary. In fact, I don't think that will work well at all for you since your spout is on the side. Hope that this was clear enough for you if I'm not able to get a pic posted. If you need any further info, just let me know. It is nice to be able to offer some help to some of you pros for a change

TJ

[TikiJoe]

Gonna have to make me a whole pouring pot rig. But, I need to get more colors/plastic and all that stuff first. Stock up now, Build that later.

[millsryno]

borderbasser,

Do you have the fry daddy or the presto pot? I have been itching to figure out a good way to hook up the fry daddy with a bottom spigot instead of a side spigot.

[borderbasser]

Mills, I have the Fry Daddy Junior. I like it 'cause its small and I don't have to use as much plastic. The element is attatched to the bottom of the pot near the outside. I tapped a 1/4" hole just inside of the element. I tried to get it as close as possible so maybe it would help keep the valve assembly hot.

[millsryno]

Does it have a plastic bottom?

[borderbasser]

Yeah, you'll have to drill a hole in it as well and run a long enough nipple to come out and clear the bottom. I think mine is either 2.5" or 3". I run the valve assembly through one of the slots used to bolt down a vise instead trying to use is over the side of the table.

TJ

[Senkosam]

Millsryno gave an excellent starting point for sticks and other softer lures. Del also has one that's similar (search this site for his reply to the same question).

M-F does have an excellent soft plastic formua and the plastic is totally bubble free. (Poured 20 baits last night in a damp basement and not one tiny bubble!) If you add salt, you must add softener if you must have the same softness. But consider this: Hard jerkbaits catch fish and their action hasn't deterred the strike since they were first introduced half a century ago. Soft jerksticks still have more action because of the stick's bend and you can even catch bass or picks on sticks made from saltwater plastic. (I have.)

If you use regular-soft plastic, then of course add softener to suit. The more important the horizontal drop/finesse action, the more softener needed; the faster the stick on the horizontal jerk, the less softness needed. With sugar flakes used for weight, you need less salt and therefore less softener and the plastic formula approaches that of the Senko in texture.

To pour consistent lures, you must have a recipe for each application the lure is to be used for.