cadman Posted December 23, 2006 Report Share Posted December 23, 2006 I'll be th first one to start in the wire bait section. I just started pouring Do-It mold SJU-3-SA. The problem I originally had I solved, thanks to TU. I was getting bad pours when I put the wire form in. It wouldn't fill in at the collar. I solved this problem by cutting a groove on the mold at the collar. This allowed the trapped air to escape, and now I have good pours again. My question is this. When you put the wire forms in where do you locate it in the mold?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icemanrrc Posted December 23, 2006 Report Share Posted December 23, 2006 I'll be th first one to start in the wire bait section. I just started pouring Do-It mold SJU-3-SA. The problem I originally had I solved, thanks to TU. I was getting bad pours when I put the wire form in. It wouldn't fill in at the collar. I solved this problem by cutting a groove on the mold at the collar. This allowed the trapped air to escape, and now I have good pours again. My question is this. When you put the wire forms in where do you locate it in the mold?????? One thing to do when you pour not just this mold, but any mold, is to make sure the mold is real hot. I always heat the s*** out of it with a heat gun. I never have problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reeves Posted December 23, 2006 Report Share Posted December 23, 2006 When I started pouring this mold, I would get everything but the very tip of the nose. Very frustrating, so I too put a groove at this spot and eliminated the problem. To answer your question on location of the hook/wire connection, I place it in the very thickest part of the body. I don't have one here in front of me, but that would be just behind the gills if I remember. This bait is one of Do-It's very detailed molds, I loose most of that fine detail once it is powder painted. Anyone else share this problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted December 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2006 Reeves, yes you are right. This is a very detailed mold. I too lose the detail when I powder paint. I do some other inks and colors, and when they are done along with air brushing, the detail is beautiful. How do you keep consistency from one pour to the next, as far as keping the hook and wire form in the same location? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reeves Posted December 23, 2006 Report Share Posted December 23, 2006 Cadman, easier said than done! What I do is note where the point of the hook is located on the mold before I close it and make sure this is where it is located for each pour. On many molds there is some writing stamped into this area and I will use it as a reference point. If none, I make a little scratch in the mold surface to use as reference. Another thing I will do to hold the wireform and the hook steady while closing the mold is I take just a dab of clay and put it in the groove for the wire and same in the groove for the hook. This helps keep them from moving when the mold is being closed. Also if the mold recommends say to use .035 wire, and you use that size, it will flop all over the place instead of being held tightly in place. The dab of clay eliminates this movement as well. And finally, the last thing I did to insure consistency is I made a silicone mold for my spin casting operation so that I don't have to mess with hand pouring the darned thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted December 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2006 Thanks Reeves and Merry Christmas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Predator Bass Baits Posted December 23, 2006 Report Share Posted December 23, 2006 I just purchased this week as well, I took and used masking tape and put it over the wire /hook slot, My first ones would pour good but the hook or wire would move and it would touch the side of the mold and cause a lead bare spot were you could see the hook/wire. I too am unable to powder paint, I am going to air brush, Any recomendations for a air brush ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dampeoples Posted December 23, 2006 Report Share Posted December 23, 2006 I can recommend a Paasche Millennium, as it's what I use with good results, I think the VL is basically the same rig, they take the same parts. I'm having a love/hate relationship with my UM mold as well, good to see i'm not alone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basskat Posted December 24, 2006 Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 Small diameter wire does try to move in a mold. The best method I've found to tighten up this wire is dip the wire in the lead pot before you pour. This will put a thin coat of lead on the wire which will hold it in place. This thin layers can then be easily removed and tossed back in the pot. Cadman, positioning the wire is a matter of preference. Hook size and wire length all play a part in this. Once I determne where proper wire placement is in the mold I mark the mold where the hook ends. Then lay each pour in the near same spot. The Badger 150 is a neat little airbrush. It's easier for me to control verses the Paasche. Just fits my hand better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Predator Bass Baits Posted December 24, 2006 Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 Thanks Guy's, When using airbrush what ratio do you use with like vinyl paint / thinner ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B&D Custom Lures Posted December 24, 2006 Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 I had problems on the spinner molds also.I learned to heat it up by laying it on top of my pots to get hot and I use duct tape on the mold to hold the thinner wires from slipping into the mold and I found that a light dusting of Talcum Powder in the mold helps it pour so much better. As far a powder coating . The UM detail can be saved but you need to place your Gun on the lowest setting and lightly dust it.But you need to heat the heads first before shooting so that it will take less paint to cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted December 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 First of all thanks guys for all the replies. I'm glad I'm not the only one that had problems with this mold. B&D can you tell me if the talcum powder affects the powder painting process, and how often do you apply it to the mold (ie every pour or every other pour)? Do you need to clean the lead from the talcum powder, before you powder paint? Tr21x I don't know believe you can shoot vinyl paint through an air brush. If I'm wrong guys pardon my ignorance. Man I'm glad this site is up. It was like having withdrawals from not being able to read all the posts. I think I'm a runaway train, and I can't stop. Merry Christmas to all at TU.....Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dampeoples Posted December 24, 2006 Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 All the ads for the Vinyl paint mention that it can be sprayed, and I have some, just never tried it, it's pretty thick, supposedly only uses their own 'special' thinner, and I don't need a vinyl coated brush, so I've stayed away from it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B&D Custom Lures Posted December 26, 2006 Report Share Posted December 26, 2006 Cad, You can spray vinyl but needs to be thinned.The talc does not effect the lead or paint.Lightly dust the mold about every three poors or so.You'll get the hang of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted December 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2006 Thank You very much B&D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reeves Posted December 26, 2006 Report Share Posted December 26, 2006 Cadman, a light coat of talc is used on the spin cast silicone molds regularly to assist the flow of the lead. I have experienced problems powder coating not adhering if the talc got too heavy. Just something I have to be aware of when powdering a mold. I think when the lead is preheated before powder painting, the heat pretty much disintegrates the talc altogether. I never thought of using talc on an aluminum mold. Thanks B&D, that's a great idea. Good example of thinking outside of your comfort zone. George Reeves H&P Tackle Welch, OK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dampeoples Posted December 26, 2006 Report Share Posted December 26, 2006 The first few molds I got, I took the advice from the folks here and smoked them, the last few, I didn't bother, and I can't tell a difference (I do preheat them a little more now), is the talc a replacement for that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted December 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2006 Yeah I smoked a couple of molds at first, and I didn't see a difference, so I don't do it any more. I do notice that the Utra-Minnow Spinner bait and the Poison Tail have a tendency to stick in the mold more tightly. I spoke to Do-It, and they told me that the more cuts and grooves and definition a jig has the harder it is for the lead jig to fall out of the mold. It makes sense. I will try the talcum powder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B&D Custom Lures Posted December 26, 2006 Report Share Posted December 26, 2006 I haven't found a problem with the talc either way.I use the gun now and haven't had any problems but with the UB mold having such small detail I found by heating them before shooting used less paint and did not cover the detail. I too tried smoking and even adding wax to the lead and found the talc to actually work. Hope it helps everyone here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted December 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2006 B&D, just out of curiosity, will baby powder work just as well or does it have to be talcum powder? I know there are differences in the two, just don't know the actual ingredients. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charkins Posted December 27, 2006 Report Share Posted December 27, 2006 I don't know whether it will work or not, but I can tell you that MOST baby powder is primarily corn starch. If I had to guess, and it is only a guess, I would say it would scorch pretty bad. Hope this helps a little Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WidowMaker Posted December 27, 2006 Report Share Posted December 27, 2006 When i worked in plastics parts production and we used what i was told was a powder which was either all or one part zinc. We used a little rubber bottle that resembled what would be used to suck the "snot" out of a babies nose to prime the gate of the mold. This zinc material was supposed to speed the flow of the plastic as it entered the mold. Maybe this would work better than talcum powder. I do know when you rubbed your fingers together it felt a lot like talcum powder. It could possibly been talcum powder with zinc added. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
