ernel Posted December 24, 2006 Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 From a reply that Skeeter made 19 Dec 03 http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1312&highlight=Devcon To make a balsa plug bullet proof, cleacoat the lure with long drying Devcon before you paint it. Then shoot your paint. This will not work with water based paints, only lacquer. Then clearcoat with Devcon for the final clearcoat. How can someone go about using C-tex paints if you are wanting to use the Devcon as a sealer for balsa? Can I, or should I use a white laquer for the base coat then spray the waterbased C-tex over the laquer for the final color scheme. Thanks, Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lure--Prof Posted December 24, 2006 Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 I have painted Createx over Devcon and E-tex many many times without a problem. Lightly scuff your epoxy coat of choice, remove any dust, give the lure a light alcohol wipe, and let dry. From this point, avoid touching the lure with bare hands. Paint away with Createx, heat setting afterwards, then clear-coat wth your coating of choice. This happens with every balsa lure I make, such as the one in my avatar. Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted December 24, 2006 Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 Yes, I waterproof with epoxy, dull it with a light sanding and then shoot the acrylics. I use white acrylic as the color basecoat. No sense in getting too complicated, besides the more different coating types you apply to a bait, the better the chance that two of them won't behave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ernel Posted December 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2006 What grit sand paper are you guys using to knock the shine off the finish with? I am thinking between 200 & 400 grit should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lure--Prof Posted December 25, 2006 Report Share Posted December 25, 2006 It depends a little on the type of paper or pad. I sometimes use the thin foam sanding pads that are called fine or 275. For paper I usually use 400 to 800. Some guys also like 3-M type pads for knocking off the shine. Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ernel Posted December 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2006 Dean, I have some of the 400 paper that is used for wet dry sanding it should work fine. I will let you know how it turns out after I get my water trap for my compressor tommorrow. Thanks, Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lure--Prof Posted December 25, 2006 Report Share Posted December 25, 2006 400 is great; if you go too rough, even with a light touch, you'll end up with scratches that will show all the way through to the clearcoat, which is usually when you'll first realize it. I mentioned the thin foam pads earlier; the gray ones from Wal-Mart are are marked Fine- 150, on the back, which makes no sense to me as they are nothing like a 150 grit paper. They behave much more like a 400 grit. I never use them for wood but they work well as a scuff pad. Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaddoxBay Posted December 26, 2006 Report Share Posted December 26, 2006 I like to use 400 wet dry or a scotch bright pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...