jmik26 Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 I agree with Dan_T. I use the microwave on high and use metal stirs. If you are getting some pyrex dishes I would get the 2 cup capacity, the one cup capacities handle gets very hot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmblack Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 I too used to have a problem filling the flappers on my beaver molds( I was using Bob's, not Dels. Both are good. ) Bob told me to make sure I had a steady flow but not too much. What was happening when pouring too fast was it was actually blocking the hole to the flappers. It took some practice, but now I have it down. Occasionally I still get some that don't come out perfect. Also when pouring, get a steady stream and don't lift the cup between baits. Just continue pouring and move from one bait to the next without lifting. Line your molds up in a line and just keep pouring. That should help some with the build up around the pour spot. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 I'd definately get a microwave and pyrex. You can get a microwave at wal-mart, a 1 cup pyrex and a 2 cup pyrex for under $50. It will cook faster, more evenly, easier with less burning. In my opinion it is the best way to go, especially for a new person. The salt you have in there probably isn't going to affect your pours because it is very minimal. Just keep in mind, however, that you should have aprox. 1/2 the amount of softener in there as your salt. So if you ever increase your salt content, you will need to add softener. Stabilizer is not needed when using a microwave. From the sounds of it, you are not pouring exactly down the center of the hole for the mold. Make sure you get it exactly down the middle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azbass Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 daaaammn, cwenbass..... I feel for ya !!! If you aren't totally confused by now with all of this conflicting advice you deserve to be !!!! Ya' know what, though,....... every bit of it is good ! What it all comes down to is that it takes time to learn this stuff and that most of us learned by trial and error and lots of practice. Take what has been said in this thread and use what seems logical to you and go for it........ practice, practice, practice. Good luck and don't let us confuse you ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted January 8, 2007 Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 I have to agree with Del on this one...350 degree plastic is 350 degree plastic...doesn't matter what brand it is.. I think it is in technique personally. As you practice more you will find that you can get perfect baits everytime!!! Poring straight down the center and pouring at a nice consistant pace is key. I use 1 cup pyrex cups and I use the 1 cup Anchor Hocking cups. I prefer the Anchoe Hocking brand actually. If you have enough molds, you can easily run through 8oz of plastic without re-heating but you will have to stir to keep the flake even at least once. Pouring with salt (at least the amount you are noting) should not really change things much. You will have to stir more (which cools the plastic) and you will have to re-heat due to that. I have used the mic/glass cup method for years now and like it over everyhting else I have tried. I have 1 four cup pyrex and 1 2 cup pyrex dish that I use maybe once a week, the rest (22) are all 1 cup. Practice is key and you will be a pro after a few more cups. PS..get a good oven mit to handle the cups as they are hot as Jeff stated!!! Good luck and fire away with more ???'s as you get rolling!!! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe S. Posted January 8, 2007 Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 I have poured in the shed in 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted January 8, 2007 Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 Just an idea, but one that will allow the finer cavities to be poured without clog. 1. Metal molds are cold and they cool plastic fast the further it has to travel (prime reason for injection poring). 2. Heat stabilizer helps thin plastic and allow for a higer pouring temp. The problem with going over 325 is the effect on glitter shrinkage and bleed for some colors. 3. I have a one part aluminum Beaver which comes out full-round with two pours, but the first thing I do is pour the central flapper tail first. It has to be thin anyway, so tilting the mold towards the body helps keep it thin and maintains the openings for the side appendages. (A technique I use for large, wide curly tails.) 4. In the case of a two part, close the mold once the central tail is poured and then pour the body and flappers. Texure on both sides of the paddle tail isn't necessary and the action will still be the same. A pain in the a... , no doubt, but it should do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloomisman Posted January 8, 2007 Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 Cwen, I think you started with one of the most complex and hardest ones to pour. I thought my frogs were difficult wow that beaver sounds even more difficult. From what it sounds like. I think a warm mold, pour speed and should fix your problem. I have found on some of my frogs and sticks if the mold is cold once the plastic hits the mold it cool(obviously) and makes an incomplete mold. Keep us posted and we want some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted January 8, 2007 Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 I just never have a problem with my beaver molds guys. I never warm them, just pour. Even when we had the 20 degree nights, just heat my plastic and pour away. Seems pouring directly down the center of the mold at a good pace is the trick for me. Frogs are the same way for me. I just heat and pour... Maybe I am holding my mouth right!!! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampBaits Posted January 8, 2007 Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 Maybe I am holding my mouth right!!!Jim That always seems to help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fire-Fly Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 If the paddles are still trapping air and your plastic is hot enough, pour with a smaller flow center of the mold. When the plastic cools and the top sucks down pour more into it till it quits sucking plastic down the mold and leaves a pool. Make sure that you are paying attention and catch it as soon as the plastic starts to go down to pour more into the cavity. If you catch it after it has already gone down the plastic might have cooled down to the point that if you pour more you create a air pocket. If your pouring with a small flow of plastic and still getting air trapped in the paddles loosen the screws on the mold to just snug not tight. It will it will help release some of the trapped air and it is not enough to let the plastic squeeze through. When you pour a few and the mold starts to get warm the lure becomes easier to pour. Usually the upper corners of the paddles is where the air gets trapped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAssKickin Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 Lee production pots all the way! Gives you a nice thin steady stream of plastic and they maintain a nice even temperature. The key is learning each pot because they are ALL different. Start on low temperature and work up slowly...season pots with a wire brush on a drill with some worm oil or attractant oil. Patients and practice go a long way. Keep the spout clean and shiny...do not let it get black with burnt plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotoole Posted January 12, 2007 Report Share Posted January 12, 2007 Interesting thread..... question for you guys. I know someone mentioned they don't use salt in beavers and baits they want to "stand up"; everyone feel that way? Looking for a general "opinion" on this as I do use salt in everything I pour., just a lot less in other than stick baits... 2-3 tablespoons per 8 ounces for beavers, worms, etc. My thought is the stand up jig heads force the bait upright anyway... everyone's thoughts? PS This site rocks... I learn something new every time. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotoole Posted January 12, 2007 Report Share Posted January 12, 2007 Typed that too fast sorry for the mispellings... Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampBaits Posted January 12, 2007 Report Share Posted January 12, 2007 I think the standup jig would make it stand up right. I just don't think everyone uses beavers on standup jigs. I like to texas rig them with no weight sometimes, so salt would help in that situation. To each his own I guess! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
