tad Posted January 8, 2007 Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 Could some of you experienced pourers give us new guys a run down on the advantages and disadvantages of the different types of molds. Since the tutorials are gone is there someplace us new pourers can go to learn how to make the different types of molds. Thanks for any info you can provide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted January 8, 2007 Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 Aluminum creates the manufactured look we strive for when selling lures. Produces good one or two part mold lures if the design cut into the metal was good to begin with. Plaster does fairly well with lure detailas, but no where near as nice as metal because the super fine details are covered by sealer. Silicone falls into the same category and is generally sold as a one part, producing one flat side. Plaster is the cheapest and easiest to use (20 lbs for 7 bucks!), sets up fast (allowing a pour with 1.5 hours) and doesn't degrade like silicone. The glossy cavity coat produces glossy baits, which is a failing of silicone IMO. Resin and POP have fans, but AL is still superior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charkins Posted January 8, 2007 Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 Senkosam is right on. Durham's Water Putty. It sets up like plaster of paris but it is much harder. The RTV rubber makes a real good bait too. If you want a bait that has more of a rounded appearance, RTV is the way to go. By the way, RTV is expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted January 8, 2007 Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 Durham's is a bit better than plaster, (though more expensive) and for the following reasons: Finer grain means better detail (BTW, the plaster looks like yellow flour in a can) Less shrinkage means the cavity is closer to the original lure dimensions once the plaster hardens. It's a bit harder than plaster, but that's never been an issue IMO. I'm still using plaster of Paris molds that are 5 year old and have the original Valspar sealer. If you go the resin or RV route, ventilate big time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tad Posted January 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2007 Thanks again guys. Couple more ?'s. Where can you get POP for $7.00 for 20 lbs? I paid $12.00 for 25 lbs at Lowe's. I've never seen this ? addressed. Will below freezing temps affect plastisol? Thanks again for taking the time to help us new pourers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted January 9, 2007 Report Share Posted January 9, 2007 Price of gypsum must have gone up because $7.50 is what I paid at Home Depot four years ago for a twenty pond bag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted January 9, 2007 Report Share Posted January 9, 2007 I've got a 55 gal drum in an unheated garage. No problems at all. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmik26 Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 We use LC Super Soft in a unheated garage with no problems. Just make sure before you use it that its mixed well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rixon529 Posted January 12, 2007 Report Share Posted January 12, 2007 I bought a 25 pound bag of DAP plaster at Home Depot (Waterford, CT) 3 weeks ago - $11.97. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kage Killa Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 When using Durham's water putty , do you need to coat it with something afterwards ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spungee Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 Any plaster that you use for molds will be porous in nature so they will need some sort of coating (Etex or Epxoy) to keep the plastic from sticking as well as to give the final copy a nice shiny surface..... -spungee- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OHBAITMKER Posted January 19, 2007 Report Share Posted January 19, 2007 Does anybody ever use fiberglass resin molds? I have made some and they seem to work well. I have read most posts over the last few months and never see fiberglass resin talked about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted January 19, 2007 Report Share Posted January 19, 2007 I've made a lot of resin molds. The detail is very good but like anything there are trade-offs. If you don't take into account for the air temp when you mix the resin you can ruin the mold and also if you are pouring a lot of the same bait at one time the molds will soften just a little and the smell will transfer to your bait. If you are just pouring for yourself(a few baits); no problem. If you make too many mistakes mixing the resin it can gat exspensive. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad S Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Valspar Sealer? Etex or Epoxy? Can you give more detail as to where I can get it, advantages and disadvantages of each. If you're talking about the two part epoxy that comes in a small tube at Home Depot etc how do you thin it out and apply it to the mold. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longhorn Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 I have been making POP molds for over 30 years and have found Elmers Glue-all to be the best coating...cheap and it dries thin so you don't lose hardly any detail. Here is the process I use for making a multi-cavity POP mold: ...this method is for making pop molds using a plastic bait as the original. I use a plastic container with the bottom cut out....trace the outline of the container upsidedown on a serving tray or other flat clean surface (your plaster will be poured on this so a tray is handy). the outline is the size of the mold so pick your containers according to what you're making the mold for. take permanent double-sided scotch tape and tape the entire area inside the outline with very little overlap. wash plastic originals in detergent to remove all oil. arrange originals on the tape to your liking...press firmly on entire length to make sure they stick to tape...then put the container you traced back over your taped originals and tape it down to the tray using masking tape....mix pop to the consistency of pancake batter...make sure you have enough for a thick mold so it wont break easily....pour pop over originals and then gently work the tray back and forth to level the plaster...then gently tap the tray on a counter or table to release any big air bubbles from around the lures...not too hard because you want the tape to hold...let it cure through the heating cycle and starts to cool...then carefully remove the container and then the mold from the tray....trim excess plaster around edges of mold and make smooth rounded edges...look at the cavities and trim excess plaster there if needed...don't trim too much...now bake in the oven for an hour at 350 to dry....after that flood the cavities with a mix of water and elmer's white glue-all...start with 1 part water and 4 parts glue...milky constistency...spread the glue over all mold surfaces to seal... drain excess by shaking the mold...after the glue dries it's ready for a test pour...sometimes a second coat is needed...if you have bubbles in your pours you can apply more glue in only those cavities by flooding or with an artists brush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Excellent info Mr Longhorn!!!!!!! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
