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Painting a Crankbait 101 I NEED HELP!

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Hello all. I need some help with painting some of my old crankbaits. I just got a airbrush this weekend and the hobby store guy told me to use Createx paint that was already mixed with paint thinner so my airbrush will not get gummed up. I been playing around with it and painted a basic white choat on a few lures. After they dried at room temp for 24 hours. I could take my finger nail and scrach the paint right off. I dont think this is good. I havent used a epoxy clear coat yet but dont know if that will help my problem or not. This might be stupid question I am no paint expert but does the epoxy clear coat protect the paint finish or will it still scrach off even after I put a coat of epoxy on it since it does without a clear coat finish. I need step by step help with painting my lures.

Thanks guys!

THE_Rookie

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The paint store guy was correct to get you started using C-Tex. It is the easiest to start with. Later on you can use cheaper paints that you have to thin yourself if you like.

Here is what I do, but most on here are far more seasoned than me on this so they may jump in also.

1. Wipe clean with alcohol then base coat with white. Yes you can scratch it off with your fingernail. That is o.k..

2. Add what ever colors you like over the base. You do not have to let them dry for 24 hours. I flash dry with my wifes hairdryer and keep on going.

3. After you are finished, coat with Devcon 2-ton epoxy ($1.98 WalMart paint dept.) and let dry for 24 to 48 hours. You will need to rotate for at least the first hour or the epoxy will sag. Check other threads about drying wheels.

4. Add split rings and hooks.

After you have let the epoxy cure properly you can't scratch off anything very easily.

Something I forgot to mention, since you are painting old cranks you might want to rough up the body with very fine grit sand paper then clean. If the body is smooth that will work. If the body has some pattern in it then you might want to be very conservative with the sanding.

If there is anything I forgot to mention or anybody has better tips please jump in.

Good luck.

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Just to reiterate, if you hadn't been able to scratch that paint off, I'd want some of that stuff.

Certainly, the drier it is, the more likely an acrylic paint is to adhere without scratching off. But it perfectly normal for paint to come off until you put a finish on it.

You have to be careful with painted lures until you have a finish on them.

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Thanks guys for your help! At least I know I am using the right kind of paint to start with. Have any of you guys tried this C-Tex Gloss top coat. Could that work in place of the Epoxy coat.

Here are a few more basic stuff I wanted to know.

1. Do I have to use that airbrush cleaner that C-Tex sales or could I just use water to clean out my airbrush gun. Or Finger nail polish remover or any other household item.

2. How thick do you guys put on the epoxy Decavon 2 stuff your talking about. And this might be a very dumb question but your dont put the epoxy in your airbrush. I assume you brush it by hand or dip the lure in it. Any advice on how to apply the epoxy would be helpful too!!!

Thanks to everyone that has replied so far..I will keep you all posted on my journey to frustration and losted money. It was this or play more online poker. I believe I will lose money slower doing this than cards.!!!

The_ROOKIE

"Life is what happens while your making other plans!"

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Rookie,

1. You don't have to use the C-tex cleaner however, it works great. It is cheap bec. it is in concentrate. You have to mix it with water then clean with it. We are talking about drops here not gallons. With that being said you can use a number of other cleaning agents when water alone doesn't get it. Windex is a good one that most people already have. It is also good for thinning the cheaper paints. You don't want to use anything to strong.

2. There are several other strings on here about using Devcon that will go into more detail. However, the quick and dirty answer is DO NOT use it in you air brush. Mix it and apply with a cheap craft paint brush. Like kids use to water color with. As far as how much, you want to cover it well. I put it on fairly liberaly around the bill then brush back toward the tail smoothing it out. Remember it is self leveling to you don't have to be extremely picky. Also don't forget to rotate it often or it will sag.

You will figure it out very quick once you get started.

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Windex huh?Have to try that one.My top coat is an epoxy I found at a craft store, it is similar to the flexcoat I use for rod building but half the price!Its intended use is for making bar tops.Here is another tip....Ask a nurse you know to hook you up with a sleeve of medication cups for mixing.Also I use plastic knives I swipe from fast food joints to mix it.

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Not sure about the "it's okay if the base coat can scratch off bit". What we are looking at is good paint adhesion, I use lacquers all the time so acrylics I don't know. With lacquers there are plastic primers available that will bond to plastic and produce a bonding surface for the lacquers later. They DO NOT scratch off period. If something scratches off, I'd say reexamine ur paint procedure, something is wrong.

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I am a newbe as well and was wondering if I need to use a certain type of paint for re-painting already painted lures, or if it is ok to go over with any type of paint? I guess what I 'm asking is if I use a laquer or acrylic over an already painted (just lightly sanded for adhesion) lure, will the top coat bubble or jellify the lower coat as to wreck the paint job?

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She loves... she loves me not...she loves me... she loves me not.. She loves me.. she loves me not...DAM!! best 2 out of three...

She loves me...she loves me not...she loves me.. she loves me not.......

(Tater slowly walks out of his shop tossing crunch and munch popcorn out of the box! with hopes of finding loads of covered peanuts at the bottom and a suprize toy he could use to paint a bait with!..) Wait a min this is not cracker jack!

For the record my entire life has been a struggle... I only had a 2.4 gpa in college and when the Dean of Marketing at Ball State University handed me my college degree his exact words were..

"YOU've got to be kidding me!":lol: This is a really funny story.. because he wasnt jokin when he said it!!! I think I failed in his class a couple of times and had to take it over and over again until I got my credits...anyway..

"I said nope your not dreaming!!!this only took me 5 1/2 years to get... now hand it over cupcake!!!"

Momma always said...anyone can be successful in life if they keep at it and never quit. Maybe one day I will win the world series of poker!!! Glad everyone got a laugh at my expense..I dish it out all the time.. guess its time I take it!!!

.....tater toss down the crunch and munch and picks up a cracker jack box and begins to sing..." YOU GOT TO KNOW WHEN TO HOLD'EM.. know when to fold'em.. know when to walk away and know when to RUN!!...you never..

OXOXOX HUGES and KISSES!!!

THE ROOKIE :lol:

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To answer Bensford66's question: I have never experienced any problems with the original coat when I was painting over an already painted bait. I use acrylic not laquer so I can't really speak on the latter. Use the sand paper to rough it up or a scotchbright pad as someone else suggested then paint. The acrylic is water based so there should not be any kind of chemical reaction. Base coat with white then apply color and seal with devcon. Good Luck!:)

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Createx is a great start. I use it exclusively. It is easy to use. Requres little thinning (but I recommend there reducer to 20~30%.

Dry each coat with a hair dryer as it needs to be heat set.

Another post awhile gave me a great pointer on using "Fixative" between coats. I only use it for my detailing and before I apply my scales. This has helped a ton. Lot less repainting. I recommend you try it. For the $6 per can, it has been a lifesaver for me as I can be clumsy.

I bet your base coat was fine, just needed the heat. Give it a shot. you will be surprised how much more durable the finish will be.

go4bas

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Hello all. I need some help with painting some of my old crankbaits. I just got a airbrush this weekend and the hobby store guy told me to use Createx paint that was already mixed with paint thinner so my airbrush will not get gummed up. I been playing around with it and painted a basic white choat on a few lures. After they dried at room temp for 24 hours. I could take my finger nail and scrach the paint right off. I dont think this is good. I havent used a epoxy clear coat yet but dont know if that will help my problem or not. This might be stupid question I am no paint expert but does the epoxy clear coat protect the paint finish or will it still scrach off even after I put a coat of epoxy on it since it does without a clear coat finish. I need step by step help with painting my lures.

Thanks guys!

THE_Rookie

Man Rookie how long ago was this post.:lol:
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I Have several questions for anyone who would like to help.

1. When mixing your own paint, has anyone encountered the "cobwebbs"? this is a fine material like overspray but it is sort of a white color???? Is this due to not enough thinner or to much? The paint and thinner I am using is pro-tec

2. The finish you see on the lures at bass pro is this an epoxy? I have put the pro-tec clear coat on and it does not get the same results.

PLEASE SOMEONE HELP!!!!

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I too am new at this insane art form. Here's what I have learned so far. Maybe this will help you as well.

1) Get a good airbrush

2) Learn how to disassemble it to clean it

3) Use good paint and thin the cheap stuff real good

4) Make a lure dryer because.....

5) I have used D2T with good success and dont freak out about the air bubbles... it suppose to happen and yes you can get rid of them. I have just ordered DN and eagerly await its arrival to my home.

6) Armistad Tackle has produced a basic video for $14.00 that was real helpful on the BASICS of painting. In fact I would say it helped me out in a great way because I learn better by watching and reading as to just reading.

7) I always use a clear spray between the different layers of paint because I will usually screw up and I need to be able to wash it off and not loose my previous work.

B) DO NOT LOOSE THE ADDRESS TO THIS WEB SITE!!!!!

9) Do not loose the "I am just beginning" attitude because if you do you will not learn anything and enter into the "BOZONE". The Bozone, which is short for Bozo Zone) is the invisible force field that comes upon those who know everything and so therefore no good idea can get in or out.

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I'm not sure Rookie has gotten the hang of painting baits. :D

Im sorry I thought this was a website where people actually give advice to others.......Let me ask you a question.....How did you learn to paint baits????? Im sure you were a rookie once as well. So maybe instead of making jokes you could give advise.

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