Gloomisman Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 I tried the high heat paint instead of epoxy for a couple POP molds. Its a no go for me. I let the paint dry for a few days just to make sure it was completely dry. Every bait I poured had a green top to it and it removed the paint from the POP. Not to self, Put up with the hassle and stick with the epoxy Devcon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 Same thing happened to me only mine were silver. lol I guess that sometimes the quickest way is not always the best way. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dutchman Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 I have used the paint in several molds and had the same results. I think the reason for not sticking was the mold was not completely cured. I put my POP molds in the oven on a pan at 200 degrees until I think it is more than done. The paint usually sticks. The problem I have with Devcon is it hides the detail quite a bit. I have tried to thin it with not much luck. For those who thin your Devcon - how much thinner do you use? How "runny" is it? I have been using Durhams Rock Putty for molds. Seems to be harder and not as porous. I also am going to try Valspar Poly for a sealant. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ominousone Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 I recently read in a thread that someone is using elmers glue to seal molds... have any of you tried this as well. I don't doubt the poster who said this, but I also wondered why no one else had mentioned such an easy answer before. If you have done this, how did it work for you? Also, I will not make any more pop molds with engine paint, I had silver flukes, and silver jig trailers too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plt Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 Have any of you tryed a water based sealer called,Mod Podge it works great and cleans up with warm water and soap.You can still retane quite a bit of detail,first coat drys in as little as 15 minutes and can be used in less than 24 hours,just apply a small amount of release againt or cooking oil with a small hobby brush. the adiction gros worse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloomisman Posted January 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 on the next trial and error is plumbers putty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rixon529 Posted January 12, 2007 Report Share Posted January 12, 2007 I've seen Mann's Ease Release mentioned in this forum before. Here's the link: http://www.mann-release.com/erelese3.htm I understand it is intended as a release agent, but what do you think about using it as a PoP sealant as well as a release agent? A couple important points mentioned on the web page: - "easy to apply, fast drying and effective over a broad temperature range from 70°F to 500°F." That covers the hot plastic range well enough... - "provides excellent release with a glossy finish." Thats what everyone wants, right? Rick H. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtrs5kprs Posted January 12, 2007 Report Share Posted January 12, 2007 Right on with cure time and ovens on the POP molds if you are going to use paint. When I made POP molds on a regular basis (late 80's to late 90's) I either gave them several days to dry or oven cured them (although some will crack). A good test of readiness for paint is placing the "cured" POP mold on some dry newspaper...if the paper stays dry overnight you are ready to paint. Make sure if you use paint you are using a gloss Engine Enamel, not the flat finish BBQ grill or fire-pit / fireplace type of paint. The engine enamel will give you a nice gloss finish on the mold and your baits. It will take several (4-5) coats and several days to completely dry /cure before you can pour. It is fine for self-use pouring, but will overheat and begin to lift from the molds if you run too many batches in a row. Hope it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dutchman Posted January 12, 2007 Report Share Posted January 12, 2007 Made a POP mold and used Elmer's Glue as a sealant. Works fine so far. Nice shiny baits. Thanks Whitey. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallie Posted January 19, 2007 Report Share Posted January 19, 2007 Make sure if you use paint you are using a gloss Engine Enamel, not the flat finish BBQ grill or fire-pit / fireplace type of paint. The engine enamel will give you a nice gloss finish on the mold and your baits. It will take several (4-5) coats and several days to completely dry /cure before you can pour. It is fine for self-use pouring, but will overheat and begin to lift from the molds if you run too many batches in a row. dtrs5kprs - will Devcon hold up better when doing multiple batches? If not, will something else or are plaster type molds not suited for multiple batches? Thanks, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted January 19, 2007 Report Share Posted January 19, 2007 I pour 100's and 100's of baits out of POP molds sealed with epoxy with no problem. I do have alum. molds for my stiks; but I design my own baits so POP is quicker and cheaper to use. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doomdart Posted January 19, 2007 Report Share Posted January 19, 2007 Mod Podge works as a pre-sealer. Haven't yet tried it on POP because I believe it would destroy definition. For whatever mold-making use you might apply Elmer's, try Mod Podge instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtrs5kprs Posted January 21, 2007 Report Share Posted January 21, 2007 I actually prefer the engine enamel for POP. Most of the POP molds I have used that were coated with epoxy, etc did not perform any better. If you get a bait you really are happy with, and intend to pour some qty of (say 100-500 baits per session), I would strongly suggest looking at RTV. It's much cheaper than it is made out to be, and usually ends up being easier to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dungeonhawk Posted January 21, 2007 Report Share Posted January 21, 2007 I too use high heat engine paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braveviper Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 I tried flexcoats color preserver mixed with a little water and so far so good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallie Posted February 3, 2007 Report Share Posted February 3, 2007 Last night, I coated 2 waterputty and 2 ultracal30 molds with Devcon 2 ton. I put about 1/4 inch of Devcon in the bottom of a little pill cup. It was about an inch from each of the tubes in the Devcon. Into the Devcon, I put 6 drops of rubbing alcohol. The drops were obtained by dipping the end of the paint brush into the alcohol and then letting one drop run down the stem and into the devcon. I also added 2 drops of red food coloring. The mix seem to drip off the end of the brush freely after stirring. I painted as thin a coat as I could and still see red coverage. This morning, I went to look at it and one obsorbed the devcon and the other three have a very shiny coat. I coated two molds with the mix above and then threw it away. Then I mixed another batch for the second two. The first batch produced the dull and a shiny finish. I did the dull one first. Question: Did I put enought alcohol in? I expected more obsorption. I tried to put the thinnest coat I could on each mold but the shiny molds seem to have lost the detail. They look great and feel smooth but I think the baits will have the shape of the mold but a smooth finish. Any comments? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longhorn Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 Elmer's glue works better on POP molds and is easier to apply than anything else. I made my first POP mold 33 years ago...I know what I'm talking about. I first painted the molds with it but now I apply it by flooding the mold with the glue thinned with water...no painting and a thin coat that doesn't destroy detail and you sure can't beat the price. I got on this site to pass on things I've learned about making molds and pouring since there aren't many of us left. Elmer's glue is the only way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallie Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 Thanks Longhorn - I want to try Elmer's but have a few questions. I looked at Elmer's glue at Walmart yesterday. They had school glue and another white glue that looked like what I will call the traditional or more familiar (to me anyways) bottle. Which one do you use? how much water do you put in? Do you flood it once - i.e. one coat? How long do you let the mold dry and how long do you let the glue dry before you pour plastic? Thanks, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longhorn Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 Use the Elmer's Glue All, not the school glue. The water/glue mix is about like milk, I haven't used measurements. I put some glue in a plastic coke bottle and add water until it looks right. I put my freshly-made POP molds in the oven at 350 for an hour or so to remove the moisture...otherwise it may take days for the mold to dry out naturally. One flood usually works, sometimes it takes two. If you flood the mold when it's warm the glue dries quickly...if you're really impatient a hair dryer speeds up the process. You can flood the mold over a pan and pour the excess back in the bottle...it will separate if you don't use it soon but the glue is so cheap it's probably not worth it unless you're going to use it again soon. Another thing I thought of is that if you have mold with a failed coating like paint...just remove the loose pieces if any and the glue will seal right over the paint. I've been thinking about putting a complete tutorial with pictures but don't really know what format to use...I'll check into it. Feel free to ask other questions. Nothing like catching fish on something you've made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 I've just looked 'Elmers Glue All'. I thought that this was some kind of product that was only available in America, as I cannot remember ever seeing the name on my shopping trips to the DIY stores. It's wood glue, we call it PVA. I wish I had known this three months ago. Now I have to go back and read all the articles again that I stopped reading because of 'Elmers'. As someone who is new to this industry, one of the most annoying things is brand names, I sometimes think you guys are on the devcon payroll. It's EPOXY and comes in various brands. I've never seen devcon yet. I respectfully request that you consider the overseas beginners when you refer to products. I could keep on going on this tack. Their are so many phrases that you take for granted. Because it is obvious to me that it is common knowledge, I have been too embarrassed to ask. I found all my answers through research and PM's. I know, I should have posted, because if I don't know then their must be others. One more request, it would be nice if, when you refer to a lure, if you could include a link to a picture, so we can emmediately see what you are talking about. Sorry for the whinge and thank's to all contributors, I am learning more every day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longhorn Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 It's not Elmer's wood glue which is yellowish....I use Elmer's Glue All which is white and less expensive. The wood glue may work...I've not tried it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 Longhorn. Thank's for that. You probably just save me from major hassle as I will be starting some POP work in the near future. I will try it, but as a test piece. I will report back 'go' or 'no go', Probably in a month, when I get back to UK. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charkins Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 I just used some of the yellow wood glue. It worked ok as far as I could see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rixon529 Posted February 16, 2007 Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 I can sympathize with you, Vodkaman. I lived in England for 3 years in the early 70s and had a lot of fun learning the differences in language. (By the way, your reference to a "DIY store" is like us saying the "hardware store". See, it works both ways...) Our members hail from France, Mexico, Sweden, and Korea just to name a few locations I can think of off the top of my head... However, the vast majority are US, so it might be a bit of a strain to expect posts of pics when referencing lures, etc. The only "dumb" question is the one not asked. If you have a question on your mind, that same question is probably on others' minds as well. Don't hesitate - just ask. Someone will surely have the answer sooner or later. Don't be discouraged if you don't get an answer right away - not everyone frequents this site daily. And if you don't get any response at all, just repost the question - its quickly pushed down by other threads. PVA is polyvinyl acetate, and that's what Elmer's Glue All is. For that matter, I think most white glue is pretty much the same. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted February 19, 2007 Report Share Posted February 19, 2007 Cheers Rick, I appreciate your time and I take your points, all well made. I can't wait to try out some pops, my design is ready and I have a gallon of the glue in my work shop. Actually, I have done pop before, it was a three foot diameter piece of art, my brother is a sculptor and I worked with him most of last year. He carved the avatar, couldn't figure out where to position the ballast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
