Jump to content
tad

Mold Forms

Recommended Posts

This is how I've been making my pop mold frames. I figure out the lenght and with of the mold needed according to the lenght and with of my master and the number of cavities that I want it to have, I then take 3/4 x 3/4 inch pieces of wood, I use pine, and cut 8 pieces when making a 2 part mold. For example lenght = 4 pieces 8" long and width = 4 pieces 6.5" long to make to mold halves frame. This will make a mold 8"x 5" or 6.5"x 6.5" if my math is correct. lol I use drywall screws to assemble the pieces. On the bottom halve of the frame i attach a piece of 1/4" plywood or plexy glass cut to the correct lenght and width of the mold frame, attach with screws. 3/4" is the reccomended thickness of pop molds so this guides me to the correct thickness to pour. I put vaseline on the frame and bottom then pour the pop to the top of the 3/4" frame, submerge my master and 2 marbles in to the hale way point, let that cure some, lube up the top of that half including the marbles this time, put some foil around the edges if you like but won't be needed if you used the vaseline liberally. Then take the top frame that should already be assembled with the drywall screws and attach it to the bottom half with the srews down thru the top half into the bottom half. I put 1 srew in the middle of each of the 4 pieces. Let cure, then disassemble making it very easy to get the mold out. Clear as mud right. lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I couldn't find pans that were the dimensions I needed, I'd either have to big of mold or not big enough. I started out using tupperware containers and the mold did come right out but I didn't like the shape or size of the end product. I just like to make uniform molds to the dimensions I need. Thanks for the suggestion thou Nova.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You might try a set-up like the one I use for RTV molds...

Get some polycarbonate sheets from home depot and cut:

1) a base (to glue your proto bait to) with some extra width

2) 4 sides...size does not have to be exact unless ramshackle bothers you

Also need some non-drying clay (like silicone friendly kleen klay or similar, usually available at Hobby Lobby / Michaels, etc).

Glue your original down with superglue or 3M spray type adhesive. Roll out some clay in a cigar sized shape that is slightly longer than your bait and place it along one long side of the original, allowing space for the mold material. Jam one of the plastic "sides" down in the clay and press the clay into both sides of the plastic piece down on the base to fill any gaps. Repeat for the ends and other side. Fill any vertical gaps with additional clay. Pour your mold material. When cured, pull the sides off to free the mold.

You can also use the clay alone as a mold form for RTV molds. Might be able to sub something like silicone caulk or Goop as the sealer and "mortar" if making POP molds.

Hope it helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, if you are using a hard proto bait. You can make a "base" inside the mold box using the same clay and pour the mold in halves, much as you described. I used a similar set-up to make a 2 part mold for making wiggle warts (actually 2 molds for each half of a wart). Should be able to modify for a soft master as well...pour as if pouring an open mold, then slice thru the mold material to the side of the imbedded bait to create the area of the seam.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...


×
×
  • Create New...
Top