Bubbadoyle Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Pmccwdeuccwwcxxce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Pmccwdeuccwwcxxce Is this a cheat code to a video game or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geritgoul Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 So im gathering the biggest dont's for pouring are, PPE and ventilation? What about the process itself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 -Dont heat plastic too fast -Dont remelt light colors (esp white or clear) more than necessary -Dont forget to write down your color recipes -Dont let hot baits sit without cooling somehow, they will warp -Dont let baits sit in water over night (if that's how you cool them) they will get cloudy (a short water bath is effective means of cooling) -Dont use any type of oil you arent sure of in bait bags, some oils will harden your plastic -Dont be afraid to ask questions here, even if its been asked before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch Fields Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 What are the hard and fast rules for keeping your baits in the correct shape? I try to put them on a cold plate but after a couple of days they go in my tackle box and kind of reshape themselves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foolinbass Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 Great thread! I am new to the site and new to pouring baits. Thank you for the insight and words of wisdom! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ice 88 Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 I have been doing this for about 5 moths now have burnt my hands 2 time I think I have about 3,000 into it now now looking for some good colors with that just found this sit like it so far read all the newbis stuff lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mlwilson25 Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 Don't pour baits in your booty shorts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greyhawk Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 how much ventilation should be used in a pour room Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 (edited) 10 hours ago, greyhawk said: how much ventilation should be used in a pour room Enough so you never smell the plastisol. Use a respirator with a solvent filter, and either an exhaust hood to draw the fumes up and out, or a fan blowing from behind you, blowing past you and out an open door, so the fumes never get to you. They can be absorbed by any mucus membranes, including your eyes. Been there, done that. Edited January 13, 2017 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greyhawk Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 Thank you for the reply Mark, would a 300cfm exhaust fan though the wall work or would it require 2 of them, also which is the most user friendly plastic to go with and thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hvaccharlie Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 I'm new at this also and I am having trouble keeping the air pockets out of my worms. Any tips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greyhawk Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 sorry room is 12 x 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 12 hours ago, greyhawk said: sorry room is 12 x 11 If the fan is in the wall directly behind your work area, it will be fine. The test will be whether or not you can smell the plastisol when the fan's on. You never want to be in the air that's been pulled past the plastisol without a respirator. I have a 20" box fan on high blowing past my work area and out the garage door. When I'm just doing a little pouring, I sometimes use it alone, and make sure to keep myself upwind from the plastisol. But a respirator is essential for your long term health, so buy one and use it. And change the cartridges per the package instructions. Wearing a respirator with non-functioning cartridges is like not wearing one at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 On January 13, 2017 at 9:12 PM, hvaccharlie said: I'm new at this also and I am having trouble keeping the air pockets out of my worms. Any tips Youre getting air trapped somehow If it's an off the shelf mold, it should be properly vented, so you may have air in your injector... You'll want to evacuate before you shoot (pushing plastic out with the nozzle pointed at an upward angle) If this is a home made mold, you'll need to cut a vent in the problem area, or enlarge the vent(s) you already have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassJunky Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 Great read, about to make my first pour this weekend and now Im scared as hell, lol. Thanks to all that contributed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parishomme Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 Some Advice on Western Union: Paying for items Listen If your making a purchase and the seller only wants to use or accepts western union. Dont do it, cause you will get ripped off! I Just want to give you all some great advice never agree to sending money to anyone especially someone you dont know, through western union. About a year ago I purchased an item worth $400 from an unknown seller and regret this to this day i paid for this item and never received it in the mail. There are professional scamers that I call scum of the earth, who are out there & who prey off of naive hard working people. Dont be fooled like I was and trust these scum bags! I filed a investigation with my local sheriff department and have not and probably will never get my money back this is considered fraud a crime punishable by jail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton008 Posted November 19, 2018 Report Share Posted November 19, 2018 I found out the hard way, a small amount of plastic in a small pyrex cooks way faster than the same amount in a large cup. If you have ever questioned whether you burnt your plastic, trust me, you'll know!! Newb's got to learn some how! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elf Posted November 20, 2018 Report Share Posted November 20, 2018 On 1/16/2017 at 4:36 PM, JRammit said: Youre getting air trapped somehow If it's an off the shelf mold, it should be properly vented, so you may have air in your injector... You'll want to evacuate before you shoot (pushing plastic out with the nozzle pointed at an upward angle) If this is a home made mold, you'll need to cut a vent in the problem area, or enlarge the vent(s) you already have I was getting air trapped because the ambient temperature in my garage was to low. The plastisol was cooling way to fast, I simply couldn't keep it hot long enough. The sprue would solidify to quickly, or the nozzle would, or the nose of the bait would...then I couldn't finish pushing air out of the mold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buddy3 Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 I am new to the site and to pouring. I have been reading this most of today and have learned a lot. So my question is how is the best way to heat the plastisol? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 I am a hobby pourer, so, for me, a microwave works best. Just take your time, heat it a minute at a time until you get close to the 350 degree conversion temperature, and then do small time intervals until you get it the right temp. I use a wire coat hanger, bent double, to stir my plastic, which seems to cut down on stirring bubbles. Buy a digital thermometer, so you can check the plastic's temp. as you heat it. Once it starts to read 325 or more on the surface, and it has become more clear and runny, stir it, because the plastic heats from the center out, so it will be hotter than the surface reads. You don't want to heat it much past 350 overall, or you can scorch the plastic, which makes it yellow and useless. I always add a little heat stabilizer (1/2tsp to 4 oz of plastic) because I do lots of reheats, and that keeps the plastic from yellowing. If you mess up a batch, toss it, and learn what not to do from your mistake, but don't get discouraged. We've all thrown away our share of plastic. Once you've begun pouring, let us know how you do, and do ask questions. Everything I know about pouring soft plastics I learned here, from members who shared their knowledge. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodknocker Posted February 10, 2019 Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 What kind of measuring cups would be better then glass Pyrex cups don’t need an explosion of hot plastic cause my garage isn’t that warm right now I don’t have good heat out their an don’t want to set it on my bench an it explode is the plastic ones ok to use or will it melt in the microwave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted February 10, 2019 Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 2 hours ago, Rodknocker said: What kind of measuring cups would be better then glass Pyrex cups don’t need an explosion of hot plastic cause my garage isn’t that warm right now I don’t have good heat out their an don’t want to set it on my bench an it explode is the plastic ones ok to use or will it melt in the microwave These work great and won’t explode. I like working with Pyrex or anchor better as they have handles and are easier to work with. This would be a good workaround for explosive Pyrex. That said, I’ve never had a Pyrex cup explode but my shop is heated. https://www.amazon.com/iSi-Set-Flexible-Measuring-Cups/dp/B001CDBBY8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549822980&sr=8-4&keywords=silicone+measuring+cups 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodknocker Posted February 10, 2019 Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 Thanks been kinda Leary of Pyrex since I read they can explode when in contact with cold surfaces I’m gonna give em shot first but I’ll be extra careful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeFishing Posted February 11, 2019 Report Share Posted February 11, 2019 (edited) 18 hours ago, Rodknocker said: Thanks been kinda Leary of Pyrex since I read they can explode when in contact with cold surfaces I’m gonna give em shot first but I’ll be extra careful I use Pyrex and Anchor measuring cups and also pour in a garage with poor heat. I bought some cheap pot holders from Walmart to set my cups on. Think I got 2 or 4 for like a $1 and cooled plastic peels off of them pretty easy. That way I don't have to set my glass cups on a cold table. I also have a cheap toaster oven I use for curing powder painted jigheads that I use to heat up my molds and injector. I pop the molds in about 5 minutes before i start heating plastic in the microwave, I set the toaster oven at like 250. I throw the injector in a couple minutes before its time to shoot. I only want the molds to heat up to about 80-90 degrees, same with the injector. This helps keep the plastic from freezing almost instantly in cold molds. Edited February 11, 2019 by BuckeyeFishing left something out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
