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Pouring jigs

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I modified a mold to pour small lead headed jigs on a dry fly hook instead of a jig hook. However, when pouring these heads some turn out just perfect, but about half the time the lead does not adhere to the hook. This causes the head to turn and even slide up and down the hook shaft. What do I need to do to get the lead to adhere to the jig hook?

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the lead will adhere to gold hooks, but you will have to sand the finish off the area of the shank where the lead will be, in order to use bronze finish fly hooks. there are exceptions though. I have heard there are some cheaper, light bronze colored fly hooks out there that the lead will stick too, without sanding. I don't know the mfg. tho.

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It's been a while but maybe I can help. The bronze hook coating in most cases is a lacquer coating and must be removed for solder, and I suppose, lead to adhere to the shank. To remove the bronze coating, sanding works, lacquer thinner works but the hook rusts quicker and propane burning works but be careful not to destroy hook tempering. The Mustad 33903 has been discontinued so hurry to get what hooks you need if you choose to use this kink shank hook.

To keep things simple, just choose any hook you want to use to make the jig. Put the bend into your fly tying vise and over-wrap 3-4 turns of very small, un-coated copper wire, wrap 10-15 turns evenly and tightly over 1/2 to 1" of the shank back toward the eye and tie off with two half hitches. I leave 1/16" to 1/32" space between windings. Then cut the wire off close to the shank. The hot lead will burn the hook's bronze coating but will adhere to the hook shank via the copper windings. If rusting becomes a problem later, just use bluing from your local gunsmith to replace the bronze coating.

Hope this helps and go fish!

John

PS:The copper wire fits nicely in a ceramic thread holder and is much easier to wind without breaking.

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