SMALLIEHUNTER Posted February 20, 2007 Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 I've been powdercoating my jigs then drilling and super-glueing the weed-guard in... If I pour the jig with the weedguard in how do I keep the guard from melting???? Please advise!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siebler_custom_baits Posted February 20, 2007 Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 Which mold are you using? If your mold does not accept Base Hole PIns there is a list of items in a thread just a few topics down that can be poure into the head in place of a weedguard. You cna then remove them and paint then epoxy in the guard. Another option is to cover the Weedguard with allum. tubing or foil when you go to heat the jig for paint. You will still want to avoid overexposure of heat to the guard however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMALLIEHUNTER Posted February 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 I'v got a base pin, it's the Do-it ball head jig with gama 614 hook. I thought about a brass tube with a silicone cover. I think Caswell sells them??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siebler_custom_baits Posted February 20, 2007 Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 If you have the base pin then just pour with it in, paint the jig and before curing the paint remove the base pin. After you cure it epoxy in the guard. Works fine for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted February 20, 2007 Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 Smalliehunter, why do you want to go back to pouring with the weedguard in place, versus what you are doing now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big-D Posted February 20, 2007 Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 Pouring a head with the weedguard in place is so much easier. Make sure that both ends of the weedguard are fused before you start. I touch mine to the pot as it heats up and roll the melted end between my fingers. I can do about 100 before the lead is hot enough to pour. Insert the weedguards in the mold and pour away. I've found that a propane torch works best for heating jigs with weedguards. Timing is everything- too long in the fire and the weedguard melts- not long enough and the paint dosen't. An 8 or 9-one-thousand count is a good starting point (different size heads or different colored paints may take longer or shorter). I hold the jig with my fingers at the bend of the hook- the weedguard facing straight up- with the bottom of the jighead touching the flange at the end of the torch. The flame will not melt the weedguard if the lead head is directly between the fire and the weedguard. Swoosh it in the powder, Knock off the excess and you're done. I don't trim the weedguard after the jig is tied. I have said this before on this board- I do not cure jigs with weedguards! I believe that if a jig is fished in the manner that it is intended to (brush, rocks, docks, etc.) the life expectancy of that jig is not long enough to warrant the extra effort of glueing weedguards or foil wrapping them (copper tubing, drinking straws, etc.) to keep the guard from warping/ melting during a cure. The paint stays on "good enough" for me and the fish dont seem to mind if the paint chips a little. I paint and cure all of my other creations without weedguards (even add 3-d eyes and seal 'em with epoxy) but personally, for a jig with a brushguard, it just dosen't make sense! Big-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMALLIEHUNTER Posted February 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 Hey, thanks guys for the input... I thought that pouring the guard in the head would save some time!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siebler_custom_baits Posted February 20, 2007 Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 I have said this before on this board- I do not cure jigs with weedguards! I believe that if a jig is fished in the manner that it is intended to (brush, rocks, docks, etc.) the life expectancy of that jig is not long enough to warrant the extra effort of glueing weedguards or foil wrapping them (copper tubing, drinking straws, etc.) to keep the guard from warping/ melting during a cure. The paint stays on "good enough" for me and the fish dont seem to mind if the paint chips a little. I paint and cure all of my other creations without weedguards (even add 3-d eyes and seal 'em with epoxy) but personally, for a jig with a brushguard, it just dosen't make sense! Big-D Customers do care about the paint job however. They want somehting that is going to look good not only to the fish but to their friends as well, even after it has been fished hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 I don't want to start a war here, but I will have to agree with Siebler on this. I sell a lot of painted and unpainted jigs, and people that know me know my quality and my "tech support help" that goes with my product.I am not perfect, and have my share of pitfalls. But I can not and will not knowingly sell any painted jig, that has not been cured properly. Also I only clearcot jigs (after they are cured), that have any 3d of flat eyes. This is just the way I am. I'm not saying I'm right. I fish a lot of rivers with jigs, and they do get abused on the rocks, and yes they are a dispensible commodity, but I won't sacrifce quality for any money in the world. My pride goes with my product. Just my worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siebler_custom_baits Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 I too cure and topcoat when i powder paint. I dont powder often but i always topcoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Anderson Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 I have to agree with Cadman. I cure ALL of my jigs, whether they are intended for customers or not. I like the results I get from two-tones that have been baked. I primarily pour wire weedguards into my jigs, but when I do fiber, they are glued in AFTER I tie my skirts on. I just find it easier to tie jigs w/o the weedguard(fiber) in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigmaster Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 hey, SMH get yourself some teflon tubing.....available at any fluid power supply house, and probably McMaster Carr.....1/8 ID and cut it to the length of your weedguards....slide the tube over the guard and cure....teflon will resist heat up to approx 500 deg F make sure your ID is not too big, as the weedguard will expand to fill the void. fuse end as noted above.....I do LOTS of them in this fashion....works well for me regards JM www.daimonlures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big-D Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 Customers do care about the paint job however. They want somehting that is going to look good not only to the fish but to their friends as well, even after it has been fished hard. I make about a thousand weedless jigs a year, with about 350 or so going to personal use. The only people who get my jigs are fishing buddies (and they're not complaining). I either barter with them or charge $1.25 a jig to cover cost. I am not in this to make money, I just want enough to support my own costs. If someone wanted me to make jigs that were baked then the price would be almost double. For me, it's not sacraficing quality- people just want the jigs that I use (already explained my philosophy). I am perfectly capable of making jigs that require all of that extra attention to make- I just don't do it for myself. -D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
