Joe Posted September 22, 2003 Report Share Posted September 22, 2003 Hi Guy's I have been carving top water baits for a long time. My baits have worked well for me and have caught a lot of fish over the years. My biggest short fall is painting. I have never given it the attention I should, as a result my baits do not hold up well over time. Although beat up baits with very little paint left on them have caught fish I would like to learn how to finish baits properly. I have read various opinions on the best clear coat and just when I'm to a point to purchase the materials needed, someone posts a comment on how that product didn' work well for them. What is the best product for someone who is just learning? Maybe not the best over the long haul, but the most user friendly for someone just learning. I have also started carving crank baits and purchased several size lips. One size has the line tie on the bill. When glued in place ,is the glue sufficient to hold a fighting fish? Thanks, Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coley Posted September 22, 2003 Report Share Posted September 22, 2003 Hey Joe, I just started making baits in March. I started with Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy. Its very user friendly. I also use it to glue my lips in, I do this at the same time I apply the finish coat. You have to turn the bait for about 20-30 minutes slowly, either by hand or on a dryer with about 5-7 rpm. If you don't turn the bait, the epoxy will sag. Turning allows the epoxy to level out on the bait. To install the lip you want a very snug fit in the lip slot. Sand the sheen off the part of the lip that fits in the slot. Drill a 1/32" hole in each corner of the lip. Apply epoxy to the slot and the lip, be sure to get epoxy all the way through the holes in the lip. Push lip into slot and line up. Besure to get lip straight. Also go here and read this article. http://www.angelfire.com/tn/treetotreasure/lips.html And do a search on this site for lips, there is a ton of information here. I hope I have been of some help to you. I think you will like Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy. Available at Wal/Mart for about 2 bucks a double tube syringe. Coley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted September 22, 2003 Report Share Posted September 22, 2003 I'll second Coley on the use of devcon 2ton epoxy.This stuff is great and is very user friendly.Besure you get the 2ton and not the five minute.Besure to mix it well and you shouldn't have any problems.I'd say about 75% of the guys here use it. You can clean your brushes after use with acetone...nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtrs5kprs Posted September 23, 2003 Report Share Posted September 23, 2003 Guess you can call me "Mr. twenty-five Percent". I use Devcon for installation of comlponents, and filling gaps, thru holes, etc...but I only use Flex Coat for clearcoating. Have had too many bad experiences with the Devcon. Think most of the guys are turned off of FC by the length of time required to cure (about 6-10 hours on a turner/dryer, and about 24 hours until ready for next coat of paint/finish). It is also a little less forgiving with respect to mix ratio. BUT...it is UV stable, adds less weight, seems to "ding" rather than "chip", etc. Definitely gives you a longer pot life, allowing you to finish more baits without mixing additional finish. I think it also gives a clearer, harder, shinier finish...letting your custom paint job show thru. ***For topwaters, I would be concerned about Devcon adding too much weight and interfering with flotation or lure action. Have had a few Rogues become quick sinkers after being clearcoated with Devcon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funny farm Posted September 23, 2003 Report Share Posted September 23, 2003 I would also agree to start with devcon 2ton , easy to get , 2 bucks a tube , works great , I just did a couple lures with it . the main reason I like and use flex coat more is I do many lures at once and it has a longer working time . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverMan Posted September 23, 2003 Report Share Posted September 23, 2003 I'm curious Dave and Funny Farm if you guys are putting on more than one coat of the FC. The few times I tried the FC it went on very thin. The FC dents with the thumbnail test while the Devcon remains unscathed, hard as a rock! I must admit tho that I have not compared the finishes on the rocks with a crankbait. Harder may not be better if the bait is bouncing along the bottom. Jed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter Posted September 23, 2003 Report Share Posted September 23, 2003 Joe, Regardless of what you use, you can never be guarenteed success 100% of the time. You just have to keep trying. This is what separates Excellent work from good work. I would try the Devcon long drying 2 ton epoxy for starts. Get it from Wal Mart near the paint section. Get some acetone from the same spot for cleaning you brushes. I use baby food jars to keep it in. Go the the model section and get the Testors white handled paint brush with the metal holding the bristles. If you don't the acetone will eat the handle of the brush. Follow what Coley says and you will be just fine. For gluing in the lip and stuff use the Devcon 5 minute epoxy. Get some of the glue down in the 1/32 holes that Coley mentioned and put the sucker in. IT WILL NOT COME OUT!!!! The face of the bait will break off before it pulls out. The cost for everything mentioned will be about $8.00. You can clearcoat at least 12 large baits with that much Devcon. It is a cheap experiment. Give it a try and let us know if you have any questions. Skeeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted September 23, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2003 Hi Guy's Thanks for all the input. I decided to give the Devcon a try. I am currently using the 5 min. Devcon to help anchor all my screw eyes so I'll try it for the crank bait lips as well. One more question on the 2 ton Devcon before I start. Some folks mentioned using thinners in the Devcon,would this give me extra working time to apply the material or am I making this more complicated then it should be? I hand carve all my baits out of Spanish Cedar and Tupelo Gum. With the time it takes to carve a lure, I guess I'm concerned I may ruin it if the finish coat drys before I have time to finish applying it. Thanks for all your help. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coley Posted September 23, 2003 Report Share Posted September 23, 2003 Hey Joe, I have found it best if you use the Devcon 2 Ton without thinner. You will have plenty of time to do one bait. Coley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter Posted September 24, 2003 Report Share Posted September 24, 2003 Coley is right. No thinner. You will have about 10 to 15 minutes to coat your lure. Just make sure that you use the long drying Devcon and have everything set up and in place before you start. Don't forget to spin the lure to level out the clearcoat. You will need to spin it for 20 min. before you can just hang it to finish drying. I like to let the lure dry for 20 to 24 hrs. before use. However, I have used lures after 16 hrs. Skeeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted September 30, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2003 Hi Guy's, You guys were right on about the Devcon finish coat. I clear coated three baits yesterday and when I checked them this morning, they looked great. I was realy concerned when I was mixing the Devcon because it seemed to be so thick, but when I put it on with the brush,it flowed on with no effort. The only problem I had was while putting the clear coat on the first bait, the brush hairs on a new brush started falling out and I had to wipe the bait clean and start over again. This delay with the first bait caused me a little problem while coating the third bait, as the Devcon was starting to thicken, so I took a hair dryer and held it to the bait for a short time and it softened the Devcon enough that I was able to finish. Looking at the baits this morning I could not see any difference between the first bait and the third one. The hair dryer seemed to do the trick. Now I can't wait to go home a try some more baits. Thanks for all your help. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VMAXX Posted September 30, 2003 Report Share Posted September 30, 2003 Joe everybody has a different idea on this and I'm also very new to it but I'll tell you what I've found and you can check it and decide for yourself, When i first started I asked about brushes some people said use the white testors brush so forth and so on, so I ordered some flex coat brushes they were like 10 for $4.00, they worked really well with no problems...then one night while buying Devcon at wally world I see a thirty pack of brushes for like 2.50 buy them and take them home to try out they worked great,I'm not sure but there identical to the f.c. brushes,maybe there coming from the same vendor ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackjack Posted October 1, 2003 Report Share Posted October 1, 2003 I have used about 13 or 14 different types and manufacturers clearcoats. I have been pretty happy about the F/C. Two weeks ago I called ETI(Environtex Parent Company) I spoke with a tech about my concerns with F/C(too soft) Devcon (too hard) She recommended Crystal Sheen. I recieved the Crystal Sheen last week and have clear coated about 15 lures. I must say that I am thoroughly impressed with it. It is definetly harder than F/C yet it is not as brittle as Devcon. The crystal sheen cures to a super glossy high build finish. So far it appears that it is the best of both worlds. This weekend I will give the baits(7 plastic baits and 8 wooden baits) the torture test of cranking the rip-rap and post the results!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincoya Posted October 1, 2003 Report Share Posted October 1, 2003 For those of you wanting a little more information on Crystal Sheen try this link: http://www.geocities.com/fredaldous/SF96crystalsheen.html Gene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just_plugging_away Posted October 1, 2003 Report Share Posted October 1, 2003 Not an expert on this subject, but one though I had was did you use a primer / sealer that flexed so it did not crack off the bait when it got wet by water seeping into the screw eye holes and such?Your topcoat is only as good as the ability of the paint/primer beneath it adhearing to the bait. Just a thought guys. I plead ignorance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter Posted October 2, 2003 Report Share Posted October 2, 2003 just_plugging, Most of the guys here cleacoat after the hardware is put on the bait. When the bait is cleacoated then everything gets sealed. If they don't do it that way, then they seal as they go. In other words, if they drill a hole for a screw eye, they will usually apply some epoxy to the threads of the eye before they put it in. After that dries, it is sealed. Blackjack, Yes, please let us know on the torture tests. I am interested. How did you like applying the Crystal Sheen? Skeeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverMan Posted October 4, 2003 Report Share Posted October 4, 2003 Hi BlackJack, How thick does the Crystal Sheen go on and how long it takes to set up? Thank you. Jed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackjack Posted October 7, 2003 Report Share Posted October 7, 2003 Riverman, The Crystal Sheen goes on in a similar fashion as the F/C or any other 2 part epoxy. I fished a bunch of baits this past weekend and was impressed to say the least. I only had a problem with 2 of the wooden baits that only had 24 hours cure time. The other baits that had fully cured an entire week were not affected by cranking other than some minor scratches. None of the baits chipped or peeled. Th two baits that were not fully cured I could dent the finish with my fingernail. The full cure baits (5 to 7 days) were extremly hard. I did coat the baits twice, and the finish is extremely glossy and has a nice high build to it. For now I'm gonna use thinned devcon to seal my wooden baits and the C/S for my top coat. Plastic baits I'll use the C/S also until something better comes along Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted October 7, 2003 Report Share Posted October 7, 2003 Where did you get this stuff?..Cost?..Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whittler Posted October 7, 2003 Report Share Posted October 7, 2003 Go to the Envirotex site and do a search for dealer locations. Got mine at Menard's, but there are several other home center and craft shops that handle Envirotez products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
out2llunge Posted October 16, 2003 Report Share Posted October 16, 2003 The best finish coat is the one you don't even have to apply yourself. How can this be you ask? Well, take your finished baits to your local auto body and paint shop. Have them clear coat them with their polyurethane finish. It's hard and clear (doesn't yellow) and best of all my guy did my 15 baits for a few muskie baits for him. They turned out fabulous with no sags, drips or anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
