New molding technique...Maybe

[Lingerdog]

It may just be new to me, I've been trying to make some plaster molds, and I can't get it mixed up to pour over baits without it setting up on me, and when I mix it in a pan and try to push my worms I'm duplicating into it, well I either end up too deep with finger impressions in my mold or so shallow that I lose leg detail on lizards. So, since I have access to a cad system and a stencil cutter, I am going to scan a lizard into it, then make some modifications, cause that's what I wanted to get into pouring for in the first place. Then I'm going to cut it on a stencil and put the stencil on a block of hardened plaster. Then I'm going to use a dremel tool to cut out my design. Has anyone tried anything like this before? And what do you guys use as a release agent for getting the lures out of the molds?

[nova]

You'll be taking a chance of fracturing the plaster if the tool catches. Would be a shame if it happens at the very end. The other things is controlling the depth and contors of the bait.

Just mix your plaster with a little more water(cold) and this will give you more time to work it. Don't forget to glue your master down; especially the legs and tails. It's the smaller bits of plastic that will float up in the plaster.

www.novalures.com

[Vodkaman]

First of all, I have never done any molding of fishing lures. But intend to do so in the near future. So I am reading everything that I can find on the subject.

The one part of the whole process that I am not comfortable with is the above mentioned, laying of the first half. It seems so hit and miss.

Obviously it is do-able with practice, as is evident from the splendid array of lures posted in the gallery. But surely their must be a better way.

My plan is to make a profile plate to fit snugly around the centre line. The lure would be held in position using modellers clay or a combination of tape and dripped wax. Any gaps around the profile would have to be filled.

This assembly would form the botton of the box and the plaster poured in. The rest of the process would be standard.

Molding something like a craw with lots of legs and fiddly details would be a big problem using this technique.

I would like to here more detail about this part of the process and I'm sure that there are many techniques practiced to get around this problem, or is it a problem at all.

Are their arguments against my plan.

[Travis]

It really isnt' that hard to do. If the consitency is correct, I like it like pancake batter and mainly use durhams rock puddy but same for plaster of paris. I don't worry about glueing baits down too often. I use vasoline (minimal amount) and wipe the contact areas of the softplastic so it sticks to the container. Very little is needed. For two sided molds I find it the easiest to pour the molding material first. Beat it a few times on the counter to remove the bubbles then push the bait slightly past halfway. I us a skewer to make sure to move mold material around all the baits then tap the container a few times until the mold material is level and covers past the halfway point of the lure. After setting I remove the baits and sand down until I reach exactly the halfway point for the lure then place the lure back in and pour second half after making some "keys" to join the mold. Bondo body filler excels for this use of making the initial "holder" in this fashion. It shrinks slightly so you get a good snug fit and sands like a charm. This is quicker and gives great results and I find better results than using wax, melted hot plastic, and clay. Those turn out good also but the above way is about fool proof. Also I don't worry about pour holes until the two piece is done. Then clamp together and use forstner bits to create reservoirs large enough that once filled it doens't have to be topped off (big negative for some of the aluminum molds I have).

Few beaver style baits made using durhams and pushing the bait in. Also with larger reservoir for one pour baits. Picture of some of the baits included to show some of the detail. Not perfect but darn close. If RTV is used you end up with very detailed baits.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/TravisH/IM000168.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/TravisH/DIY2piece.jpg

[Swede]

instead of water use milk as fluid will give you more working time on the plaster

[Vodkaman]

Thank's Travis. That makes a whole lot more sense to me, past half way and sand back. Your reply is actually full of useful little tips and snips of information.

I do believe you have saved me some learning curve time. Hopefully I might be able to return the favour one day.

Nice tip Swede, I've written that one down too.

[Lingerdog]

I have designed my lizard, I call it the swamp monster, I hope there isn't something out there already called that, but it probably is. But anyway, I am going to cut it into the plaster tonight, if I'm not out fishing, then I'm going to make some lead pours of my lizard. I plan to place the lead lizards in a blank pan, and fill it with silicone to hopefully come away with a silicone mold. But at least my mold came in from LC yesterday and I can at least be pouring some flukes and frogs and single tail lizards, and senkos. And thanks for all the tips, I may try to just pour some more plaster to get me a zellemander mold.

[doomdart]

Lingerdog, check your pm.

[jackson4734]

Hello,

This is how I make my molds using Bondo. First get a aluminum pan that has tall sides and spray it down with WD40. Mix the bondo and pour the pan half full. Spay the bait and press half way into the bondo. Take a pencil and make 4 small indentions at the corners. Let it have time to setup. Leave the bait in the set bondo and spray all of it with WD40 and then pour the top layer. Once the top layer has time to setup simply remove and use a dremel tool to cut a fill spout. The indentions that was made with the pencil will allow the two halves to go together tightly everytime. The trick to bondo is the WD40 because it will not stick to anything that has been sprayed. This is the simplest way that I have found to make a mold.

[GonefishingAZ]

I just freehanded a mold using sculpting tools from the craft store. I thought about using the dremel, but was a little afraid of cutting to deep. I just poured a 1.5 -1.75 inch pop block, drew my design on it and slowly started carving it. Turned out pretty good for my first try. Mind you it is only a 7" ribbon tail worm but I'm sure if you took your time you could carve a Liz.

[COBRA]

i have made a ton of molds by just carving my cavity by eye. with hardened plaster and a dremel it can be done. you have to get the router atatchment and router bits or small endmills. just take your time and run on the high speed, it makes a lot of dust so keep the shop vac nozzle next to where you are working.

[longhorn]

I've made some that way too. It's really an easy way to make your own design for thinner things like chunks...so never throw away an old mold..if it's thick enough you can carve on the bottom.