Pouring Tungsten Jigheads and weights

[BillG-MN]

50 minutes ago, RM3 said:

It would be nice if some company could make tackle, I know some use the same process.

They make pellets of tungsten powder with a thin coat of resin, intended for use in standard injection molding. It is more dense than lead, at 14 gm/cc. I wish I understood the process.  I'll bet there is a way with slight heat and a bullet press or maybe a hydraulic bottle jack to at least make bullet weights and drop shot weights.  I buy tungsten beads that I solder (using tin solder) onto hooks to make jigs, and it works well. Easier than pouring.  But I can't find larger sizes like 1/4 oz and 3/8 oz.  The beads are tungsten maybe sintered with iron powder, because I can pick them up with a magnet.  

[Kasilofchrisn]

On 4/2/2020 at 6:40 PM, Tiderunner said:

As far as powder coating, I'll powdercoat the next day or even longer after I pour to allow the items to cool completely. The I heat them gently over an alcohol lamp and dip them. Plan on ruining a bunch due to heating to a too high temp.

I have a super easy fix for that.

It's what I use when I make soldered ice blades that melt at much lower temps then lead.

I have a DeWalt heatgun that is infinetly adjustable and I believe Wagner has one as well.

So I just dial back the heat to where I want it.

Then heat as normal. If your heats set right you cannot overheat/melt them as you heatgun won't get hot enough to do so.

Once heated I dip in my fluid bed as normal.

Now my DeWalt heat gun doesn't have a temp gauge just a dial on the back of it.

So I use a lead thermometer from Rotometals set hanging on the lip of the tip of the heat gun to dial in the temp I want.

I usually set the temp just a bit hotter than I need because my jig isnt being heated directly on the tip which is where my thermometer was when I set the temp.

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Edited April 9, 2020 by Kasilofchrisn

[BillG-MN]

How does the powder paint hold up without being baked enough to cross-link for a half hour?  Or are the brands that don't need to be baked?

[Kasilofchrisn]

Just now, BillG-MN said:

How does the powder paint hold up without being baked enough to cross-link for a half hour?  Or are the brands that don't need to be baked?

Most powders are recommended to be cured at ~400*f for ~20 minutes.

If you don't bake them the paint will chip very easily.

So if your not going to cure it a good clear coat is recommended.

I always cure mine in the oven.

But you can find examples on YouTube where people have experimented and found they get good cures at lower temps. Sometimes they cure longer at lower temps but not always.

I've seen videos where they got good cures even at temps slightly lower than 300*f

Different brands, which can be a different type of powder paint, can require different temps and times.

 

[Tiderunner]

2 hours ago, Kasilofchrisn said:

I have a super easy fix for that.

It's what I use when I make soldered ice blades that melt at much lower temps then lead.

I have a DeWalt heatgun that is infinetly adjustable and I believe Wagner has one as well.

So I just dial back the heat to where I want it.

Then heat as normal. If your heats set right you cannot overheat/melt them as you heatgun won't get hot enough to do so.

Once heated I dip in my fluid bed as normal.

Now my DeWalt heat gun doesn't have a temp gauge just a dial on the back of it.

So I use a lead thermometer from Rotometals set hanging on the lip of the tip of the heat gun to dial in the temp I want.

I usually set the temp just a bit hotter than I need because my jig isnt being heated directly on the tip which is where my thermometer was when I set the temp.

 

I have a eat gun but without a thermostat, and this sucker gets hot! I still find the alcohol lamp works best for me wihtou the need for thermometers, rheostats, etc. Keeps it at just about the right temp for BiSn jigheads.. as far as tempering to cure the paint. It took some experimenting, but With the jigs up to 1/2oz, They can with stand temps to about 290 for 19 mins. After that I shut the oven down and leave the jigs in.

I've never had a one chip on me. Even when dropping on cement floor.

Next toy for me is the fluid bed. After 20 years of doing this I'm still dipping in the jars.

[Kasilofchrisn]

5 minutes ago, Tiderunner said:

I have a eat gun but without a thermostat, and this sucker gets hot! I still find the alcohol lamp works best for me wihtou the need for thermometers, rheostats, etc. Keeps it at just about the right temp for BiSn jigheads.. as far as tempering to cure the paint. It took some experimenting, but With the jigs up to 1/2oz, They can with stand temps to about 290 for 19 mins. After that I shut the oven down and leave the jigs in.

I've never had a one chip on me. Even when dropping on cement floor.

Next toy for me is the fluid bed. After 20 years of doing this I'm still dipping in the jars.

If it works for you then keep doing it.

I've never used the alcohol lamp.

I just prefer the heat gun. Set it and forget it. Plug and play so to speak.

I use it in other hobbies as well so it's multi purpose.

Plus no open flame or alcohol and wicks to buy.

The fluid bed is a great way to go.

I make mine is just a few minutes with just a few $$ in parts and a 30/60 aquarium pump from Walmart.

A 3" abs flat cap with a aquarium valve glued in for the base and cups of abs or pvc and knock out test caps plus membrane material for the cups.

[BillG-MN]

I agree.  If I don't cure mine, it is doubtful that the finish survives a limit of sunfish.  I also have a fluid bed, and like it. (be sure to wear an N95 mask, though!)

When these guys are talking about pouring a bismuth/tin alloy that melts about 280°F,  a 400 degree oven doesn't work so well.  I use that alloy, and paint with an air brush and clear coat with a UV curing resin or epoxy.

Edited April 9, 2020 by BillG-MN
punctuation

[mark poulson]

7 hours ago, BillG-MN said:

I agree.  If I don't cure mine, it is doubtful that the finish survives a limit of sunfish.  I also have a fluid bed, and like it. (be sure to wear an N95 mask, though!)

When these guys are talking about pouring a bismuth/tin alloy that melts about 280°F,  a 400 degree oven doesn't work so well.  I use that alloy, and paint with an air brush and clear coat with a UV curing resin or epoxy.

You can also clear coat with clear nail polish from the Dollar Store.  I do that with some of my spinnerbaits.  I actually use a small artist's brush to hand paint the heads, dry with a hair dryer, and coat with clear nail polish.  Holds up to weeds and tules, and the occasional levee rock.

Edited April 10, 2020 by mark poulson

[Tiderunner]

20 hours ago, Kasilofchrisn said:

If it works for you then keep doing it.

I've never used the alcohol lamp.

I just prefer the heat gun. Set it and forget it. Plug and play so to speak.

I use it in other hobbies as well so it's multi purpose.

Plus no open flame or alcohol and wicks to buy.

The fluid bed is a great way to go.

I make mine is just a few minutes with just a few $$ in parts and a 30/60 aquarium pump from Walmart.

A 3" abs flat cap with a aquarium valve glued in for the base and cups of abs or pvc and knock out test caps plus membrane material for the cups.

This is slightly off topic, but can the fluid bed be used to powder coat spinner blades?

[mark poulson]

8 hours ago, Tiderunner said:

This is slightly off topic, but can the fluid bed be used to powder coat spinner blades?

I tried it once, and the blade was so heavy it barely turned.  I'm sure there are people here who can make it work, but not me.

If I want to coat a blade, I'll use either blade dip (https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Spike_It_Blade_Dip/descpage-SBD.html), or fingernail polish.  I've found that I can even hand brush them with Createx, and then coat them with clear nail polish.  That works, too.