outcast Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 I want to start out by saying THANK YOU, the information that is shared on TU is PRICELESS !!! I use D2T on my crankbaits, it works great, but I have some SMALL suspended jerkbaits and some jointed jerkbaits that are ready for clear and i'm affraid that D2T will affect the action or make them sink. Can anyone recommend something thinner? Also, I would like to pass on something that works for me when using D2T. After brushing the whole lure with epoxy, I use a cheap lighter with a tall flame to get the air bubbles out. Don't put the flame under the bait (it will smoke the finish) or hold it too close for too long (it will make the epoxy run), just pass it by the lure a few times. I keep a sewing needle handy also, sometimes that bubble that you cannot get out is trash that you can pick out without having to rebrush the whole lure. You can run the lighter past the area that had the trash and even add a drop of epoxy and it will flow together. All of this has to be done before the epoxy starts to set up. Hope this can help someone and someone can help me. THANKS..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBait Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 Use propane or mapp gass...no smoke. Of course I dont use devcon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverMan Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 Rustoleum lacquer.....comes in a can, three coats, done deal. RM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outcast Posted March 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 Thanks RM, that sounds easy enough, guess I'm headed to Wally World. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doomdart Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 The Rustoleum does work pretty well to seal the paintjob, but doesn't do much for protection beyond that, IMO. You might also try thinning Devcon way down with alcohol before applying. This will allow you to spread it on very thin. Tip I picked up from a few good folks here. Curious, how does E-Tex compare to Devcon in this respect....the thickness of the coat and how much weight it can add? Never tried the stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpbullet Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 I have used Torginol in the past. Quite a bit thinner than Devcon. But I prefer just to thin Devcon with alcohol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doomdart Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 I have used Torginol in the past. Quite a bit thinner than Devcon. OK, jp...I'll display my ignorance...what is Torginol? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzarkAssassin Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 I am new to all of this, and I had asked a question earlier about what type of top coat should be used on a water based auto paint. I have been allowing the paint to cure for about 24 hours, and then applying a thin layer of water based poly urethane to the lure. Again I am new to this so I haven't tested this out yet, so if anyone has any suggestions as to what I should do for my top coat, I am open for suggestions. I am applying this on plastic suspending jerk baits. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatfingers Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 doomdart, your avatar bait is beautiful. Outcast: I keep a sewing needle handy also, sometimes that bubble that you cannot get out is trash that you can pick out without having to rebrush the whole lure. Good deal. I use a toothpick. As to the lighter....no, no, no, now listen. If you're going to be a lurebuilder you have to willing to shamelessly steal things from your family. Surely your mother or wife, or sister has a blowdryer? Or your brother or father has a heat gun? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbaits Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 what do u use tbait..........???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBait Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 In regards to ETEX. This is a thinner top coat. It wont yellow. 2 properties that I will share as I did a long time ago. I was given alot of insight by Richoc and he put Carolina Chip onto it as well. They say Co2 is what causes the bubbles to release. Co2 will release the bubbles however the problem is deeper. In order to for a liquid to release airbubbles, the bubbles have to be able to rise to the surface. If you have a substance so thick that they bubbles cant rise, the bubbles wont be released. People have said that heat does help. In my opinion you are dead wrong. Heat will thin Etex to the point that it will run like water. Have you ever seen an air bubble in water? It rises to the surface where it will release. I would never use a hairdryer...there is a intake and exhaust... whatever is sucked in, will come out. That will be blown onto your fresh sticky epoxy. No way on the hairdryer. JMO Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBait Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 Should have been / Correction to the above People have said that heat doesnt help. When did the 1 hour editing feature start? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverMan Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 I have chinook lures (kwikfish) that I have used for three years with nothing more than three coats of Rustoleum on them...still going strong. If you expect the bait to be crashing into rocks continually then something tougher might be needed.......or just spray on another coat. RM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted March 24, 2007 Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 Envirotex Lite (aka Etex) is an epoxy that's thinner out of the bottle than Devcon 2 Ton. Or you can add some solvent to Devcon for similar effect. Or you can try a water cured polyurethane like Dick Nite Fishermun's Lurecoat or Famowood Duratuff. Or one of the rod guide epoxy finishes like Flexcoat. All of these options contain solvent, which can make solvent based colors run. But all are thinner than straight Devcon. Be sure to use a lure turner with any thin clearcoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doomdart Posted March 24, 2007 Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 doomdart, your avatar bait is beautiful. Thanks, FF. Glad you like it. Means a lot considering all the great ones you've shown. I have chinook lures (kwikfish) that I have used for three years with nothing more than three coats of Rustoleum on them...still going strong. Maybe I sold the Rusto short. Used it for sealing paint prior to Devcon (when only one Devcon coat is desired). Also used it to bleed paint over foil. Never tried it with multiple coats for topcoat. Might have to give that a shot. Thanks RM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpbullet Posted March 24, 2007 Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 Hey, doomdart. Torginol is an epoxy resin. Mainly used for floor coatings. You can check it out at www.torginol.com . Its military grade, which in my experience using it is very durable. Only problem is, you have to buy it by the gallon and its pretty expensive. Much thinner than devcon, makes it pretty easy if youre in to dipping your baits. Another good coating substance is Fabulon, if you can find it, it is what they use to coat bowling lane floors. Tough as nails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doomdart Posted March 24, 2007 Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 Thanks, jp...they both sound like galaxies on Star Trek, LOL. Dipping sure would be nice, and that must be why many have gone to Fishermun's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassnRandy Posted March 24, 2007 Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 Try Flex coat like the rod builders use. It dries very hard and thin. The disadvantage is you need to put the lure on a drying wheel of some kind and keep it turning. This stuff usually takes about 6-8 hours to get hard and 24 to cure depending on humidity and temp. It is self leveling so as long as you mix the to parts well you will have a beutiful finish. Make sur every thing you coat is clean. I have seen where it won't stick where a finger print or some other oily substance was on a rod or lure. I have been using it on my cranks for several years and have had no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP MYERS Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 I'd say the same thing "devcon works great but".. My but is, but Im struggling with it!.. I just recently starting using it.. Im very happy when it comes out right, its clear,deep & a beautiful finish & have stated so on this forum recently.. But its not without problems for me..I usually end up with 1 or 2 tiny areas, about 1/32" to 1/16" wide & 1/4" or less in length that either look real thin or looks like the Devcon 2Ton epoxy spread away from itself leaving a shallow indention on surface..I was flashing quickly with propane torch to remove air bubbles, but a good blast of human breathe seems to be enough to do the trick so I stopped using the torch..Is that a mistake?..I put in on thick enough I believe, perhaps too thick?.. As it sits rotating do gases build up & need heat to pop the bubbles later on?..I really dont think my problem is air bubbles, seems the epoxy is seperating..Is that from not mixing thoroughly perhaps?..The coating also seems to not self-level too good either even tho Im rotating..I dont use a heat source for drying, just rotating at room temp(75F-80F)..I also tried Nu-Lustre55 & had same exact result: small shallow thin areas on finished coat..Can anyone see what Im doing wrong after reading this post?..If you need more detail I will be happy to give them as this is something I need to correct ASAP.. I make about 25-40 lures a week & am just now switching over to epoxy..I have to get this figured out & quick..Or I'll have to go back to clear enamel coating just to save my behind & sell the lures.. I really need the epoxy tho, as Im selling lures to tournament fisherpersons now & they demand epoxy...I thought about mixing more than I need to fill a small cup & try dipping into the mixture..Grasping at straws at this point.. I use disposable brushes right now, no heat for drying, use rotate wheel, mix what I believe to be thoroughly & accurately, how many more variables do I need to eliminate or add?..My paint is enamels & I wipe lures off w/a clean rag to remove any dust..Thanks for any help..You're welcome to e-mail me w/any good suggestions too..Desperately seeking epoxy salvation! John Myers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 Air bubbles have two sources of generation when it comes to epoxy. One you are mixing them in in the initial step. These typically are easily brushed out in my experience when applying the Devcon. I usually try to make sure I don't incorporate many when mixing in the first place. The second source and more problematic in my experience are bubbles caused by a poorly prepared/sealed bait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP MYERS Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 Thank you, I did add extra mixing time..Also mixed inwardly as opposed to just swirling the mixture in circles..I added some subtle heat via two 100 watt bulbs, above & below the lures as they rotate between the bulbs,,, Lookin good now!.. Nice even coat, no thin areas, crystal clear D2Ton finish.. Amazed at how hard the finish is too,, 2 thin coats & I can barely get an exacto knike to shave a thin slice off the finished coat.. Thanks again.. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
