OzarkAssassin Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 I am new to all of this, and I think I have figured most of the process out on my own, but I am still needing some advice on the finishing of my lures. Basicly, here is the process I am going through when repainting my plastic suspended jerkbaits. 1.) sanding the surface, or scruffing it up with a fine steel wool pad. 2.) make sure the surface is free of all dust. 3.) applying water base coat. (Auto Air Base Coat) 4.) applying water-based paint. (Createx, & Auto-Air) 5.) letting it cure for 24 hours. 6.) this is where I get lost. I have tried a poly-urethane, and a straight urethane based coat. I have heard of people on here using epoxy before applying their clearcoat, but I really am clueless when I get to the finishing of the lure, which I know is the most important part. Please excuse me for my ignorance, but any advice would be appreciated. Please feel free to tell me if I am doing anything else wrong as well. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrick Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 Well I think maybe the reason your are lost in the process is that I think most of the folks here are using some sort of epoxy as their finish. I use FlexCoat which is a flexible epoxy. I think you will find that poly-urethane will yellow over time leaving you with some undesirable finishes.. Everyone looks for a better finish. I used a product called duratuff for a little while but it was a laquer based finish and the fumes would kill you if you didn't have extreme ventilation and it dried extremely fast but took too many coats to do that job. So far "I love Flex Coat". Found out about it from Scott Rook Bassmaster Elite Series pro. Hope this helped a little bit!! Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzarkAssassin Posted March 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 Thanks for the input. I kind of suspected that from reading all of the posts, but I wasn't exactly sure, because it sounds like most everyone in here uses acrylics as well, which I would think would require a different type of finish. How long to cure, and do I mix it with a hardener, or just apply as is. How do you apply it. I would think you wouldn't want to apply it with an airbrush correct? Sorry to bombard you with question's, but this has been frustarting me for weeks, trying to find something that will work, and no one seems to have answers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrick Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 OzarkAssassin said: How long to cure, and do I mix it with ahardener, or just apply as is. How do you apply it. I would think you would want to apply it with an airbrush correct? Curing time depends on the product you decide on. I let my flex-coat cure 24 hours before I put another coat or do any other things with the bait. I would want it to cure at least 48 hours before tossing it in the water to let a scaly friend chew on it. LOL No air brush needed for epoxy. Apply it with a brush and it will flow out like glass as long as you have a long enough working time epoxy. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzarkAssassin Posted March 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 I just found it in Cabela's magazine. Thanks Again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrick Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 you do not want Flex-Coat LITE Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzarkAssassin Posted March 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 Where do you suggest I get it? Lite? as opposed to what? You need to remember your speaking to a rookie here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrick Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 Go to www.mudhole.com. Click on epoxy and then finish and then Flex Coat. You want the high build formula. Good Stuff! Good luck! Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzarkAssassin Posted March 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 Thanks Again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjbass Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 FYI, I used flexcoat for sometime, nice finish and flexible, but it will not withstand fish with teeth. So if you are going after anything other than bass, you might want to consider something tougher like Devcon 2ton, Crystal Sheen or something like that. Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzarkAssassin Posted March 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 Ocassionally, I will go after Big Brownies on the White river, and they ussually tear the hell out of my regular stick baits I buy at the store, so I know what you mean. But for the most part I am fishing for largemouth. Not sure if you know the answer to this, But I have never used acrylics, I have always used water based createx, or Auto Air. Can I use both together on one lure. I have been trying for the life of me to get a flashy chromish look shad color in the water based line, and I can't seem to find it. It sounds to me like most of the people in here use acrylics. When I think of Acrylics, I think oil based, & I wouldn't think that would go well with the water based. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spare tire Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 I believe the createx colors are acrylic and water based. Thats what I use, But the chrome finish is almost impossible unless you use aluminum foil as a base. A search on foil will get you what you need to know. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doomdart Posted March 24, 2007 Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 spare is right, you should look into the various foil options, then paint your foil. Expect to mess a few (or more if you're like me) up first. Takes some time to learn the foil method, then you have to adjust your painting methods as well. But well worth the time spent to learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzarkAssassin Posted March 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 Will Do! Thanks for the input. I currently use the alminum base by Auto Air, and I have been trying some pearlized silver, and it doesn't even come close. I know that people use sparkle and flakes between epoxy coats, but is it ever common to throw a lite spay of transpaerent paint on in between epoxy coats. Thought it might bring out a nice understone with the right colors? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...