Wierd poring problem.

[CHUCKV309]

Last night, I was poring some 3/8 and 1/2 oz Ultra Minnow spinner baits. They came out great, so I thought. It was the first time I poured them using a ladel; I usually just use the spout on my pot. The lead was hot, ladel was hot (kept it in the lead), and the mold was hot. They poured perfectly. All the detail and complete. The problem is the wire is loose in the head. It can pivot back and forth. I know it can't come out because I crimped the wire tight around the hook eye, but why is it loose? Luckily it was only 4 of the 8 that I poured, but unfortunately I didn't find out until after I was painting them. The wire came from a coil of wire I bought from Stamina and I had used it a couple of days earlier with no problems. Any ideas would be appreciated.

[Mr B]

When you removed the head from the mold it was still very hot. You probably grabbed it by the hook or the wire. When this was done the lead was still not completely hard and widened the hole around them. Try to let them sit for a couple more seconds in the open mold before removing them.

Mr B

[jigmaster]

another contributing factor is the softness of your lead.......while very soft lead is desirable in most cases....you want to have a bit harder when pouring buzzers and spinners, for that very reason

JM

www.daimonlures.com

[reeves]

Mr. B and Jigmaster are dead on. One other suggestion. When it is cool enough to remove, grab the sprue to remove it rather than the hook or wire. Good luck.

[Vodkaman]

I have not done any lead work, so if I write something stupid, forgive me.

It seems to me that, if the process worked when you first tried the moulding operation and failed a few days later, then the only thing that has changed in that time is the wire surface. This could be corrosion or contamination.

This can be easily tested by cleaning a few with 600 grit emery. If this works, you should be able to find some proprietry cleaning solvent or acid to dip the wire into. If you go to a plummers outlet, you should be able to buy 'flux', this does the same job, it cleans the surface and 'wets' the surface of the wire to the molten lead.

Without the flux, the corrosion/contamination repels the lead surface, leaving a small gap.

I have read that many of you use wax to clean the lead. This sounds like the same function as flux. It may be worth dipping the wire into wax before loading the mould. This may be a very bad idea, as the wax will vapourise explosively in an enclosed space and eject the molten lead like an exploding bullet. But, if the moulds are very hot before pouring, then their should be no problem as the wax will have already boiled off.

[CHUCKV309]

After I looked a little closer last night, it looks like the wire somehow repelled the lead. There is a nice circular hole all around the wire, so I think Vodkaman might be on to a problem with that portion of wire. The lead is the same, and I always pull by the sprue, so I don't think that is the problem.

[Mr B]

Just my 2c.

I have been pouring lead for 18 years and have never seen the wire form repel lead. However I'm not saying that it cant happen.

Mr B

[Tally]

  CHUCKV309 said:

Luckily it was only 4 of the 8 that I poured, but unfortunately I didn't find out until after I was painting them.

you will probably never know but I would almost bet the first 4 were the ones that are lose. It has to be in the process and not a wire / lead factor. If I had to guess I would say either the lead was not as hot as you thought or the mold was not as hot. As stated before, how and when you remove the bait from the mold could also be a factor.

never tried the wax inside the mold and if you elect to do so.....take caution. I use bees wax to bring the crap to the surface and it will ignite in / on the lead. i would be curious to here what happens the next time you pour? maybe keep the baits lined up as you poured them, let them sit over night and check the wire for the loseness.