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OhioMike

Resin Molds

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As for the Plastic masters, I have had good results using plastic masters, the only thing is that once you use them, they are ruined. I have never used a release agent on the Fiberglass Resin. I use a pyrex baking sheet, and superglue the masters to the bottom, then I pour in my mixed resin with catalyst and sit back and wait. Once the mold begins to Cure, (Get hot ) it will contract a little from the sides of the baking sheet. After about two hours the resin will start to cool, once completly cool, flip the pan over and tap on the back, the mold will release itself from the bottom of the pan. Then trim the mold where the resin flowed into the areas you didnt want it to go with a razor knife or dremel. BE VERY CAREFUL !

Also the Pyrex baking sheet Im refering to Once was used to make Meatloaf by my wife, B)

Hope this helps, any other questions feel free to ask.

Rick

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Rick, Thanks for the quick responce. Gonna try it tonite. Also I've come up with a different way to make tubes. It works really well with tubes for crappie 2". I poured 200 2 color tubes in about an hour last nite. Gonna try it with larger tubes for bass, I'll keep ya'll posted.

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I made two 2 piece molds out of clear plastic, basically just drilled 4 5/16" holes in each set. Since they are clear I can see how much plastic I

have in each hole. I fill them half way with the main color then top off with the tail color.

While they are still molten I take a 16penny nail, that I put some hard rubber grommets on to act as a stopper, into the holes. This causes the plastic to overflow and because the grommets have a rounded surface I give the nail a little twist & it kinda self centers itself in the hole. I then set the mold aside & do the second mold the same way. By the time I fill the second mold the first is ready to demold. I remove the nails, take a razor scraper and run it across the top of the mold this removes the overflow, pop open the mold And toss the tubes in a pan of water.

One thing I do is keep the nails in a small pan with about 1/8th inch of worm oil in the bottom, this really helps to lubricate the nails for easy removal.

When I first started to do this I was hand pouring, I have since bought a couple of Lee Pots which has increased my speed dramatically.

I really dont see why this wouldn't work with bigger tubes also, just gotta try it.

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Sorry, A little quick on the submit button. :oops: A couple of more things, The reason I put the grommets on the nails is so I can adjust the depth of the hole. Most of the tubes I pour are for guys using weedless jigs so I give them about 1/2" of solid body, but if I want to make the hole deeper for insert heads I can.

Still have to cut the tails but I guess you can't have everything :D

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I'm lucky in the plastic dept. I work for a large sign company And I can usually get my plastic from the scrap pile. I would think you could check with a plastic supplier in your area, they might even have some cut off pieces you could get cheap.

When I drill the holes in the plastic I have them in a drill vice, before I remove the 2 pieces of plastic I take a very small bit & drill a hole at each end of the 2 pieces I then super glue a small panel nail in the holes on 1 of the pieces of plastic, I then cut the nail so about a 1/8" sticks thru.

when I put the 2 pieces together they work great as a line up device. I use 2 large folder clamps 1 at each end to hold them together, works well & doesn't block the the view of the holes so I can see how much plastic is in the hole.

I made a much larger tube mold to try but I need to work on it some more, I can't find any nails big enough that would make the hole the right

size. I think I'm gonna get some dowel rods cut them to size seal them and see if that works. Just been so busy pouring orders haven't tried it yet.

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couple of questions. I've heard that as the mold cures it generates a lot of heat, so can I use a plastic master or will it melt? .

When you do a fiberglass resin mold and are worried about the heat generated, add only 3/4 of the hardner needed ammount. This will slow the cure time and the heat generated.

If it cures too fast it will crack the mold.

Jeff

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Monty, I really havn't given that any thought. The people on this board have been so good about sharing info & helping, not just me but everyone that has a question, that I would feel kinda funny trying to sell them as kits.

As I said in my earlier post I have the 2" tubes down pretty good but have not done anymore on the bigger tubes. As long as the demand does not get out of hand I would be willing to make a few sets & send them out.

All I would ask is the person receiving them cover my costs for the clips And shipping. The clips cost me about $.40 each so for 2 sets the cost would be $1.60 plus shipping.

Redg8ter, If my doing this will cause any problems, let me know & I won't do it.

Thanks Mike

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I would like to take you up on your offer for your kits. How would you like the money for the shipping? I purchased 240 pounds of the Alberger salt, and if you would like some let me know. Again, just cover the cost of shipping. I like using this salt better than any of the others I have tried. You can post here are email me at doc.irv@verizon.net Thanks.

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Redg8ter' date=' If my doing this will cause any problems, let me know & I won't do it.

Thanks Mike[/quote']

I see no solicitation by you here, you didnt offer anything, the guys simply want your work.

Id appreciate any interested parties to email OhioMike directly though.

Thanks for sharing Mike.

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Reaper, It's my understanding that 2 part resin molds are not practical :cry: I posted the same question a while back & got several replys that the resin bonds together no matter what you try as a release agent. when I do 2 part molds I use plaster. A couple of people posted some things to try but I never followed thru, do a search on resin molds.

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