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rockylinx

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I hope this helps

A TI rod will have less drag and more motion. This Ti bar has 14 tuna clones on it.

tu2.jpg

The molding can be purchased at home depot. Its the composite molding cut into that shape. (it floats) I drill vertical hole for the main line and a horizontal hole under the main line for the Ti bar

tu3a.jpg

tu1.jpg

The end hoops are eye hooks. (cheap eye hooks from home depot)

tu.jpg

I connect a snap swivel to the mail line

Main line should be finished like this or with a plastic insert

tu4.jpg

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Ti is titanium. I like it b/c you can use thin diamiter and it will pulse when trolling. Mcmaster or online metals.com should sell them. Really you can use stainless if you can't get Ti.

Yes the molding is door molding, its the white (not wood) molding in home depot.

This spreader bar is sold for $300 by a NJ charter boat. They rip people off with the cheap materials they use.

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When I get some time tonight I will put a caliper to the wire and get you the diameter and length of the rod. The main line is 50# mono and the crimps on the main line are for 50# mono. (you can use whatever #line you want.) The crimps on the wire vary. I use whatever I have that fits. For crimp sleeves I use coffee straws.

#3 The diameter depends on the drag of your tuna clones. In shore clones you can get away with a thinner rod (SS or Ti) Big offshore tuna clones may need a little larger diameter but its not going to make or break the spreader bar. The main line is the only thing with a hook in it (the last trailing clone) so even if the spreader bar snaps in half you will not loose the fish but you will loose some tuna clones.

#4 yes the molding is lightweight and it drills and cuts very easy. It floats so if you hook up with a small fish you can stop the boat and fight the fish without pulling in the other lines.(they still sink but at a much slower rate) You can also glue foam cigar floats inside your tuna clones to really keep them floating

What are you fishing for?

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FD, Thankyou thats kind of you. Thats funny I use crimps all the time and I had never thought of using crimp straws. Sounds like a good idea and I never thought McDonalds would come in useful for something in the end. Generally dont troll and I either kayak fish or use a 16.5' small cabin boat with 90 HP outboard with 2 of us or maximum of 3 but would like to have a go at catching some Yellowfin Albacore or Skipjack Tuna at some stage or targeting some of our Yellowfin Kingfish which should have a go at these. I dont know what else you could takle here but we get the odd Spanish Mackeral that wander down at the right time of year for a short period. There is not much in making a couple of these up and making them up and having them on hand certainly wont go amiss. Finding the Ti wire will be the problem (had no success ringing around so far) and might have to settle for a bit of Spring SS in the end. I would imagine a bit of 1.6mm ( =0.063") down to 1.2mm ( =0.047") might be the way to go and anywhere from 50# to 80# for the mono or flouro.

Interested in what size wire you are using and anything you have to add as I have never fished this way before. (looks like a bit heavier game rod and reel coming up at some point (when I can afford it). Will also have to find someone to take us out in a bit bigger and more seaworthy boat for the tuna. What are you targeting and what size hooks are you using yourself? Also what type of hooks are best for this sort of setup?

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FD, How do you set the tuna clones up (like how many on each line and how far between each clone ) and how far behind is the final trailing clone with hook? Also trolling speed? Imagine these need to be run fairly fast (probably about 7 to 8 knots i imagine). Am I right. The only trolling I have done in the past is at 2.5 to 4 knots with only 1 lure on and targeting a lot smaller fish.

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the bar is 3 ft long and the diameter is 1.68 mm .066 inch.

Trolling speed is relative to how the spreaders are working. You want the bars to break the surface, then dive under and come back up and skip along the surface. Not violently break the surface but enough to create some commotion. 7 knots is a good place to start and I have hooked plenty of tuna at 12 knots. (even "football" blue fin schoolies) Sometimes we randomly put the boat in neutral and let everything sit 5-20 seconds then put it back in gear.(the stall time depends on winds and current, you don't want to make a mess out of the lines) When we troll spreaders we have 4 rods and spreader bars on the outriggers. 1 spreader bar off the center outrigger (furthest behind the boat.) Then we have 2 birds running on the teaser reels and 4 rods flat lining ceder plugs no more then 15 feet off the back of the boat. (you want it to roll around in the prop wash) I am a HUGE fan of flat lining ceder plugs. I feel if your trolling tuna it is a MUST.

Where are you located? I have everything you need for a trip. The captain I used to work for sold his boat this year and he let me have 2 rods and reels. I have harpoons, flying gaffs, big eye gaffs, snatch blocks, stand up fighting gear etc.

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the main line is 9 ft long. 2.5ft down the main line I crimp the bar in place. Then I thread a clone on the end of the line then a crimp then a clone then a crimp then a clone then crimp then a clone and 5 red or green triangle beads (you can get them at wally world) then crimp a hook on. Now I go back and from the hook up I crimp every 1.5 ft. On the ends the line is 3 ft long and has 2 clones on them. Thread clone then crimp, clone then crimp. I crimp at the very end of the line then the next crimp is 1.5 ft up. My inshore spreaders have 4 clones on the main line and 2 clones on each side. I use mustad and owner hooks.

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FD, Thankyou you taught me something I knew virtually nothing about before yesterday. Now I can see why you say Ti is better than SS in this case. Still have to digest what you have said in this last email but I am at least 1/2 way there already. Will get back with any questions that occur. Do you have any good photos showing the entire setup as described above you can post or refer me too? Do you use any weight at all in the actual catching lure or any form of additional attractor/flash at this point? Thanks

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Now with this last one you slowed me down a bit. I will have to take a bit more time and digest what you have said properly. I need to figure out exactly what you mean by: "Then we have 2 birds running on the teaser reels and 4 rods flat lining ceder plugs no more then 15 feet off the back of the boat" What are birds?

Its all this part I really need to comprehend fully: "When we troll spreaders we have 4 rods and spreader bars on the outriggers. 1 spreader bar off the center outrigger (furthest behind the boat.) Then we have 2 birds running on the teaser reels and 4 rods flat lining ceder plugs no more then 15 feet off the back of the boat."

I have a lot of things still to do today and must go and do them very shortly. Will read it properly draw it out on a piece of paper when I return and should quickly grasp the details.

Would like to understand these 'flat lining ceder plugs' you mention. Do you have a picture of these?

I am not in the States but down in New Zealand. At present it is only an interest but I will get there eventually. I really need to do some reading on the subject. Thanks for the offer anyway. Most appreciated. Now I better go and make some money for the day and do what I get paid for.

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FD, Thanks, havnt seen a bird before but I have seen the Cedar plugs or at least our equivalent of them which are are made from 3/4" Tawa dowel or a broom handle and I know guys who have caught Kingfish on them. How are the hooks held in the plugs? Are they pegged or what? I take it the plugs are hollow the line/leader is fed through put through the eye of the hook and crimped and the line is then retracted/drawn back and pegged or secured in some way? Will download and have a look at the vid.

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