dampeoples Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 Been reading about, and hearing about some local guys tossing pretty large football jigs, and working it like a c-rig. I've never tried this, always c-rigged, drop shotted, or especially, deep cranking. What are the properties of the football jig that makes people want to use these? the stable bottom? The tip up action when pulled? Would a Poison Tail or other heavy jig work in it's place, I don't have a football mold Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bladesandbaits Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 Sterling, I learned how to fish a (3/4 oz)Heavy Football from the guys I make them for.It took a while but I love to use it especially 20 to 25 feet deep. They taught me to keep it on the move all the time.The head rocks side to side when retrieved like this. I can tell you that they are most productive on hard bottom especially when scattered gravel and rock are present. They dont do well around brush simply because you stay hung up all the time. I had good success with them fishing shallow clay points earlier in the year at Hartwell/Russelland the Hill. I just started using them on the ledges at Russell and Hartwell in 20 to 25 feet but it took me a while to find humps and ledges with the right ingrediants. One thing I can tell you about getting bites is that they are hard to detect.But if you think you are getting bit do not repeat do not drop the rod tip to set the hook! If you give the fish all that wieght back on a slack line he will spit it before a cat can lick his but. If you have to lower the rod tip then real the slack line at same time. Most time if you keep pressure on they wont turn it loose.Then sweep and set the hook like on a rig. Equipment: 7 foot Med/ Hev rod 20 to 25 pound Flourocarbin Line (no mono ever!!!) Regards, Blades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dampeoples Posted July 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 Wow! Thanks for the info, heading to the river this weekend, but will be giving that a try on Falls when I get back. What's the norm for a skirt on one of these? I like rubber, so an 80 strand, or back off to 60 or so? Glad you said to keep it on the move, or I woulda been out there stopping it, then giving it a nudge to tip it up every now and again to hopefully provoke a strike. One thing, I use Excalibur on all my bottom baits, it's a Copolymer, I gave fluoro (Berkley Vanish, not the Transition, though) a shot, and the first trip out, it was great, the next four I lost more Tx fish than I care to even think about, you have a recommendation on some Fluoro, or should I roll with the Silver Thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bladesandbaits Posted July 12, 2007 Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 If I were going with rubber I would keep it under 80 for sure. If you use a Plastic Trailer make sure you cut the skirt back so it never touches the legs on the Trailer. I know alot of people hate P-Line but P-Line pure Flouro gets the call from me.You just cant afford an line stretch.You need the sensitivity that mono cant give you as well as the hook set capability. Just try to use a line that has low stretch if you can. As soon as Icast is over Suffix is going to introduce a new Flourocarbin to the market. Regards, Blades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dvowell Posted July 12, 2007 Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 For Fluro I highly recommend Sunline Sniper, if you can find it. It's pricy, but definately worth it. I use the 6lb version on my Daiwa Pixy and 15 on my Revo STX's. If you don't want to pay that much, believe it or not, the BPS XPS Fluoro is great stuff at a very attractive price. The Sniper has a smaller diameter and is definately more manageable, but the XPS seems to be a bit tougher overall. -D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dampeoples Posted July 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 Yeah, was reading the Fluoro showdown at TT, some good info there, but I still didn't pick any up. I'll get some and spool it before I go back to the lake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minnowseinetackle Posted July 13, 2007 Report Share Posted July 13, 2007 We make these football jigs and we love to use them in the quarry that we fish in. What we do is take a 6" plastic craw and cut off his tail and use the head for the trailer. Do what we we always say, smack in the face with the trailer!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deerhunter229 Posted July 13, 2007 Report Share Posted July 13, 2007 If I was going to fish only 20 to 25 ft. deep I use a 1/2 oz. arkie head if you don't have any football jigs. 25 ft is considered shallow water fishing on a couple of my home lakes where the spots and smallies can be as deep as 50ft during these hard summer months. The real key is keeping contact with the bottom. It is easier with a heavier jig but can be accomplished with lighter jigs. I have caught spots in 35 ft of water with an 1/8 oz jig when they would not hit a bigger bulkier 1/2 or 3/4 oz jig. Also I like P-Line flourocarbon but it is secondary to Fireline or a good braid when deep water fishing. I just add a flourocarbon leader for the spooky fish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassmaster1974 Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 I drag a big 3/4 - 1oz football jig anywhere I fish deep cranks and C.rigs.Some work much better than others.I generally stick with custom jigs someone makes that keeps the hook riding upwards so the trailer is upright.Most of the time I do like some of the guys mentioned above and just drag it like a c.rig.Great on ledges and drops also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
