Do-It Shake-it Jig SRH-6-A mold.

[lokust]

I got my Shake it mold this week.

This was my first time pouring.

I also got Lees 10lbs. production pot.

Got the proper hooks, Made my first pour. What a disaster. A little bit better results on the second pour.

Then I did some more research then found a few tips that helped out a whole lot. Like, preheating the mold before pouring.

But I read a tip where it said to blacken the mold with a candle. Whats the use of this?

My other problem is I cannot for the life of me pour a 1/16th oz head.

It seems like the lead hardens before it reaches the bottom of the cavity, This is driving me nuts.

can some one give me some pointers?

I appreciate it very much.

-Chris

[reeves]

lokust,

Having fun yet? There is a ton of info on this subject, all very good stuff too. I see you have found some of it and to read it all would take you quite a while.

The mold must be HOT before pouring. To achieve the proper temp, most guys will lay the mold on top of the lead pot while it is heating up. Another method is to make a few blind pours before ever adding hooks. Just close the mold, pour in the lead and let set for about 30 seconds, empty and repeat about four times. Your mold will be plenty hot by then.

Blackening the mold is to aid the flow of the lead into the cavity. Many guys swear by it and others don't think it helps. For me, I have found it helps on some molds and not on others, so it is a trial and error. Burn the candle so the soot is filling the mold cavities completely. I use one of those patio tiki torches, they lay up a column of black smoke that would have the EPA running to investigate, and they blacken the mold in about 10 seconds compared to a slow candle and the mess of melted wax.

For your incomplete pours where the cavities are not filling, it could be due to several things. The lead is not hot enough. I pour my lead at about 750 degrees. The mold is not hot enough. Again, pre-heat it to get it the same temp as the lead you are pouring, it won't cool quite as fast when pouring into your mold. The other thing that comes to mind is air. You are displacing air with lead when you fill the mold. The air has to have a place to escape. Most of the time this is not a problem, but when it is you need to put a vent groove in the mold at the point that is not filling with lead. Using a fine triangular file, make a groove from the cavity outward to the edge of the mold. It doesn't need to be too deep, so experiment with it and try a pour or two after you first groove it and relieve more if necessary. You only need to groove one side of the mold. And finally, try tipping your mold some by raising your hand and allowing the lead to enter the mold at an angle. Sounds silly but it works so give it a try as well.

Hope this all helps you and good luck.

[WidowMaker]

To fill a mold cavity the lead needs to be flowing into it as fast as possible. Dont be afraid to open the pot and let it flow at a reasonably fast rate.

One thing to try before cutting a vent for a mold cavity:

Try holding the mold under the pot so that the discharge barrel drops down into the mold gate...then lift the handle. What you will be doing is injecting the lead stright into the mold cavity. This decreases the amount of time the lead has contact with the cooler air and allows the lead to flow faster. You can also tilt the mold slightly forward while doing this. This will allow the lead to enter the cavity and roll back up the back side of the cavity which will cause it to fill where there might be experiencing short pours. A couple of my molds will not pour worth a dime unless im slightly tilting the mold forward and then they will pour perfect.