SMALLIEHUNTER Posted August 18, 2007 Report Share Posted August 18, 2007 I have been pouring jigs for awhile now, using the powdercoat then drill out and glue in the weedguard!! So I decided to order new molds so I could pour with the Weedguard in the jig. I got my new molds from Collins Custom Molds yesterday. They are great!!! The problem is the weed guard ... I used a Teflon tubing to cover the weedguard but in the curing process the guard shrunk about 3/16 of inch... Did I miss something or do I need to order new longer weedguards ????? I'm useing FG-12 1 1/4 inch long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dampeoples Posted August 18, 2007 Report Share Posted August 18, 2007 What did you specify for him to cut the weedguard at? Sounds like your new mold takes a larger weedguard than the last one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMALLIEHUNTER Posted August 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2007 This is the first Mold that I tried with this weedguard. I' m thring to find out if anyone knows of a way of avoid the shrinkage!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dampeoples Posted August 18, 2007 Report Share Posted August 18, 2007 I see, I completely misunderstood your question, I think. Your teflon tubing is too short, after you cure the powder, not the guard itself too short or small on the jig! I have no answer to that other than maybe metal would be a better weeguard guard to use? I really don't know much about teflon's properties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMALLIEHUNTER Posted August 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2007 I tried a teflon tubing as a sleve over the FG-12 weedguard to keep it from melting, while curing the powder coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted August 18, 2007 Report Share Posted August 18, 2007 I have had the same thing. The weed guards do shrink when baking the powder paint with the weed guard in. Mine were 2" long and shrank 1/4". The weed guards were covered with a metal tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted August 18, 2007 Report Share Posted August 18, 2007 I have a question for you guys that pour lead with the weedguard in place. Do you do this to save time of not glueing it in afterwords? I don't want to sound arrogant, because that's not my intent. But I have read posts in the past of the same or similar problem. My question is this. If it is a continuous problem, why do some guys still do this. My other question is this. How does your paint job come out after you paint your jigs with the weed guards in place and bake them????? I'm very curious to see some finished jigs from the guys that do this. Maybe I'm missing the boat here. Again don't take this as a knock on anybody that does this process, I don't want to start an arguement here. I have too much respect for the members at TU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 I spincast my jigs. I pour lots of crappie jigs with a small weed guard put in when I cast the jigs and these are not painted, so this is a huge time saver of not having to glue the weed guard. So when I started doing bigger jigs with weed guards and was going to paint these jigs, my mind set was to put the weed guards in when I cast the jigs. So when I got ready to powder paint these I put a metal tube around the weeds guards and made special racks to hold these. They powder painted and baked fine except for the shrinkage of the weed guard. So I decided that it was more trouble to put the tubes over the weed guards. I can paint them so much faster without the weedguard and then glue the weed guards in later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Fishing Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 It's been a while since I have been on here but here goes with my 2 cents. I thought this through a couple of times before I came to the realization that powder paint is just as durable if you pass it back through your heat source after painting it. There is really no need to bake the jig to harden it. Second, I have drilled out holes for weedguards after painting and I have also tried teflon tubing. Both were way too time consuming so what did I do? I started painting my jigs with the base hole pin in place. After I have coated the jig I removethe pin and glue/epoxy my guard. No more drilling out the hole. I assume most of you, like me, have several base hole pins laying around. If the paint builds up on the pin after several jigs just burn it of with your torch or heat source you are using to paint with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMALLIEHUNTER Posted August 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2007 I have always dipped, then I clean the eye out and then cure. Then I drill and clue in the guard. The guard I'm using is a FG-12 which is 5/64in. I will try leaving in the pin and then curing to aviod having to drill!!! I'll let you know how it works...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIGNPIG Posted August 20, 2007 Report Share Posted August 20, 2007 Guys I've been pouring jigs and painting jigs for a while now, this is how I do it. First pour the jig with the base pin in it, then remove the base pin and replace it with a 1/8 wood dowel,then heat the jig and apply the powder paint,right after you dip the jig in the paint dip it in a water bath(this stops the curing process),then remove the dowel and bake,then glue in the weed guards after the jig has cooled. If there is excess paint in the hole just take a 1/8 drill bit and turn it by hand to clean the hole. Then I glue in the weed guards while I'm watching TV! This is the best method I have found for me. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reeves Posted August 21, 2007 Report Share Posted August 21, 2007 I spincast my jigs and a teflon rod is used in place of a base pin. When painting the jig, I heat it and once it is up to the temp I want, I put a piece of the teflon rod into the weedguard hole and dip it in the fluid bed, tap and remove the teflon rod and bake to cure. Simple as that, I have a shiny clean weedguard hole and then glue in the weedguards, but not while I'm watching TV or I would have everything glued together but the weedguards LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Daddy Posted November 15, 2007 Report Share Posted November 15, 2007 Kudos to everyone who posts on this site, the information is priceless. To cure the jigs with the weed guard in, this is what I do and it seems to work for me,take aluminum foil and cut into strips, now cut the strips into small squares long enough to cover the weed guard, take a 16D nail and roll the foil onto it using your fingers, slide the foil off of the nail and slide onto the weedguard, open hook a fraction and stick with barb, this holds foil in place. I cure at 250 for 25 min. and this keeps weed guards intact, the weed guard I am using is the fg-12HB. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMALLIEHUNTER Posted November 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2007 Big Daddy, thanks for the input. However I'm still drilling and super gluing them in, it's actual quicker when you doing a couple hundred at atime!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Daddy Posted November 16, 2007 Report Share Posted November 16, 2007 Hello Smalliehunter, my method is certainly not for production, though it does seem to keep those weedgaurds intact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEVSkeeter Posted November 16, 2007 Report Share Posted November 16, 2007 I spincast my jigs. I pour lots of crappie jigs with a small weed guard put in when I cast the jigs and these are not painted, so this is a huge time saver of not having to glue the weed guard. So when I started doing bigger jigs with weed guards and was going to paint these jigs, my mind set was to put the weed guards in when I cast the jigs. So when I got ready to powder paint these I put a metal tube around the weeds guards and made special racks to hold these. They powder painted and baked fine except for the shrinkage of the weed guard. So I decided that it was more trouble to put the tubes over the weed guards. I can paint them so much faster without the weedguard and then glue the weed guards in later. Off topic sorry but, can you spincast a jig for me? Looking for someone to do so. Springfield MO. area. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Daddy Posted November 21, 2007 Report Share Posted November 21, 2007 Hello Jev, apologies for the belated response, what is spin casting? I use heavy duty foil, cut into squares, a little longer than the weed guard, and about 2 inches long, than roll these one at a time onto a 16d nail slide off than slip over weed guard, pry hook out a fraction and insert into foil, actually just kind of catch the hook into the foil, this keeps it on, and bake away, even at 350 for 15 minutes the weed guards are good to go. Maybe when the led hits the guard this is the problem? Also these fiber guards are not a perfect science, I feel that some are short before you pour, you just do not notice it. Thank you Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
