Mags Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 I'm new to plastic pouring and am going through a learning curve. I had the same experience with crankbait making/painting, but I eventually made it work for me. I made a swimbait mold, similar to a basstrix paddle tail, but not a tube. The mold is made of Durhams water putty. The problem I'm having is the paddletail, which is thin and large (3/4 inch across by 3/4 inch deep, 1/8 inch thick) wants to stick in the mold. It is also very difficult to get plastic all the way into the tail, even when I start at that end and carefully let a stream enter the tail. This is a top pour mold one piece mold. I haven't sealed the mold yet, because I wasn't sure if I liked it (and I didn't!). If I had sealed it with expoxy would the tail have poured and pulled easier. Any ideas on how to pour the tail and get it to release better? I am making a new mold. Thanks. On a second note I made a two piece mold (nose pour) of the Lake Fork Magic shad. The mold looks great, but I couldn't get plastic to run all the way to the tail. This mold was sealed with exopy. I tried heating the plastic way up (ended up burning it) and pre-heating the mold. The plastic would work through the chambers almost to the tail and then stop a little short. Without some type of pressure to push the plastic I'm wondering if the only way to pour this one is with injection molding or a one piece top pour. I just wonder with a top pour if the plastic would run through the small slits between the chambers and produce a bait that works. This bait appears to be split longitudinally. A one piece may end up spinning in the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 I'm not a plastics guy, but lately I have read a lot of posts with this same problem. If the the plastic is hot enough and the mould has been pre-heated, then this points to a venting problem. A 1mm dia hole or smaller in the mould extremities may all that is required to solve the problem. Without the vent, the air has to fight its way past the incomming plastic, which I imagine to be a vairly viscous syrup. Has anyone considered some kind of vacuum pump to forcibly draw the plastic through via an extremity hole. It would need a little thought but would be much cheaper than an injection system and at least as effective. Just my thoughts on the subject, NOT proven advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 When you are making a 2 piece mold always put a vent or two from the tail section just incase. As for the sticking problem; never pour into an unsealed mold. Always seal the mold well. This will give the glassy finish; prevent sticking, and allow the plastic to flow easier into the mold. Also; make sure you plastic is hot enough. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mags Posted August 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 Thanks guys. I will seal the mold the next time I try a pour of the paddletail. I'm making a new mold of that one and am making some changes. I could add a few vent holes in the tail with a small piece of wire that could be removed and then re-inserted to clean the plastic out. That may be on mold three. I'll try one without it first. One the Lake Fork magic shad I had the fore thought to add vent holes to the tail. The problem is the plastic cools enough that by the time it hits the tail it has solidified, even with a hot mold. The idea of using a small syringe for a vaccuum is an interesting one. Many moons ago when I tried pouring plastic my dad (a dentist) made a two piece Guido Bug mold for me. He had lots of practice with molds and could really produce some good ones. The only way to get the plastic to the pinchers was to inject it with a big syringe. Worked well, but kind of cumbersome and dangerous. Can't make many baits that way. I bought the syringe I think from Hilts Molds 20 years ago. Do they still make these things? I haven't seen one. A syringe for a vacuum on the tail end is alot safer and may actually work to draw the plastic down. With these swim baits I don't want to make many. Just some for myself and fishing partners. I've seem the top pour Magic Shads people have made on this board, but if you look at the bait the tail is in the middle of the head (aligned) and the bait is injected half and half to get a perfectly symetrical bait. I just wonder if a top pour would perform right in the water as the symetry of the bait is wrong. I would think it would end up rolling in the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
empire247 Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 that lake fork magic swim shad is the same thing as an imakatsu javallon i think, there was some topics on trying to make it with a 1 or 2 piece mold awhile back. type in "javallon" in the search and it will come up. there is a member named rico29 on here that made some nice copies of the javallon, maybe you can pm him and he could give you more info on making the mold for it brett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidewinder Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 Mags on the paddletail you may have to thicken the tail some to make pouring easier. I took a #4 OR # 5 COLORADO blade and glued a dowl rod to inner cupped side of the blade and would dip it to the edge of the blade in hot plastic. Dip it two three times and twirl the blade between dips to even the plastic out. Glue the new tail to master and make a mold. My basstrix tails are twice as thick as the original pour easier and swim better.Hope this helps. sidewinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Prager Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 You can make a one piece mold for the Magic Shad. A buddy of mine spent $300 on some and we tore them all up in a day and a half. We saved 4 and made a one piece mold. I find it actually makes for a better bait. When the plastic contracts it makes up for the hookslot you lose when glueing the bottom down on a flat surface. M-F regular plastic works well and it you want it a tad tougher just add some highlight powder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mags Posted August 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 Thanks for all your help. I'll give your excellent suggestions a shot. The expense on these baits is ridiculous and making them myself, besides being fun, should make things a little more economical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basspro Posted October 28, 2009 Report Share Posted October 28, 2009 I'm Willing to Pay someone if they could make me some soft plastics that would work for Largemouth bass that are feeding on small bluegill. The Lake I'm fishing suposedly has Gizzard shad, and Creek Chubster, but they are reare. Please let me know if you could make me some Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Prager Posted October 28, 2009 Report Share Posted October 28, 2009 Just click on this link. You should find what you are looking for Tacklemakers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
