Senkosam Posted October 22, 2003 Report Share Posted October 22, 2003 Remember the variables talked about in the post about variables? Here's a design you might find useful and how it was producd. 1. Take a Sharpie Pen and make a 2 part mold. 2. pour the plastic 3. groove the plastic with a soldering iron 4. use with a 5/0 wide gap and catch fish! The bait is 5 1/4", full bodied versus slim, doesn't require as much salt and still has the walk of a slimmer design. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeminoleFan Posted October 22, 2003 Report Share Posted October 22, 2003 Damn Good looking bait Sam ! Bet it does well.. Guess what my next project will be Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted October 22, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2003 Thanks S.F., I figure if they don't want it longer, they want it thicker! LOL Here's the bait with 5/0 hook Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper lures Posted October 22, 2003 Report Share Posted October 22, 2003 Sam, Did you leave the cap on or off. I am assuming you left the cap to the marker off. I like your desine alot. Also how did you get the rings in your mold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted October 23, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2003 The cap was left on. I further tapered the ends by using a flame and gravity and added the rings by gooving the worm crosswise with a soldering iron. I will make a mold of the worm in the picture so I don't have to go through the hassle of modifying. The picture shows the pen along side the worm. The original worm was smooth and a little over 5". After catching bass and pickerel, I had to cut the worm down and reinsert the hook. Rather than use the plastic as a remelt, I tapered the ends and grooved the plastic as mentioned. The grooves are more for texture than anything else. I've found that acceptable stick sizes are from 4 /14"-5 1/4"; slim form for any size; thicker form for only 5" or more worms. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celticav Posted October 24, 2003 Report Share Posted October 24, 2003 That is some nice work SenkoSam, JIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthworm77 Posted October 24, 2003 Report Share Posted October 24, 2003 Nice Frank, I will have to hit you up for a 5pk of those next time I see you, perhaps at the next NYbass seminar. I'll bring a gift or two for you don't worry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted October 24, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2003 Remind me to bring a pack to the next seminar. Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_hide Posted October 30, 2003 Report Share Posted October 30, 2003 They look sensational, It actually resembles a large grub or caterpillar. Something else you might want to consider to get your grooves into the mold so you don't need to use the soldering iron each time. Take your marker and use it as a "spine" apply a paper thin roll of your chosen clay, modelling plaster etc around the pen Some modelling material that disperses with water. Slice your grooves into it with the end of a fork, burnishing tool , pencil etc so long as it makes thicker grooves than a exacto knife or such. While the plaster around the pen is still wet , wet your hands and run it up and down the plaster a few times, the water will wash into the edges rounding out the incosistencies and give your master lovelly smooth running grooves. That way you get the thickness and straightness you require from the pen and the nice smooth grooves from the plaster with very minimal effort. Once it dries you can also use very fine sanding paper to get that surface back to perfectly even and smooth. Since red suggested I use beads for my masters I've been using beads and pens for "spines" , cutting out creature shapes and tails in cardboard and applying modelling clay over the top to bulk them out and give them shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted October 30, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2003 Thanks Hide, but I did it successfully with thick solder wire, wrapping it around the pen - close at the ends, spaced in the middle. But since you've brought up the segmenting worms, it occurred to me that I was never fond of one part molds, even if I overpoured the flat top surface. Thus, the iron. The unnatural and not-as-hydrodynamic form is transformed into a beautifully textured, rounded bait. ("beautifully textured"?; man, I better start venting the fumes!) I also decided to make a sample to send Dave concerning his motor oil color which is more watermelon than anything else. So I put some worm oil on cardboard and let it run, forming a rounded skin. I shaped one end of the tear, and connected it to a 4" LureCraft stick with a candle melt. Wella! - a short Speed-Worm. (see pic - (top worm);(the next-to-bottom worm was from a felt tip pen mold) Note, segmenting brings out subsurface glitter by bringing it close to the surface. For all of you that like to imagine realistic characteristics about your worms that fish actually recognize, how about the intestinal tract of a real earthworm or translucent minnow. It's intestines look like black squiggly lines that contrast when viewed against a light. Well 'so what?', you ask. The large internal black flakes give that appearance. Not only does the worm move seductively, but so does it's bowels!! LOL (Got to stop sniffing those fumes!) Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted October 30, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2003 The worm in the forground is the penworm. (By the way, the only way to transform LC's motor oil into a real motor oil, was to 1. add chartreuse dye and 2. dip the worms in Spike It. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
