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Gibby

Anyone making Swimsenko type baits?

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I am trying to make a POP mold of a swimsenko and having some trouble . I tried a one piece mold but the originals kept shifting on the pan. I then used 100 percent silicone to glue them down. The silicone stuck to the pan good but let loose on some of the baits. What is a good adhesive to use on these slippery suckers? Should this be a two part mold?

Thanks Gibby

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What I do is get a thin sheet of balsa at a craft store. Cut the piece to fit the bottom of your mold seal the wood with spray paint when it dries push pins through the bottom of the balsa and through your swimming sinko do that 4 or 5 times (pins) then cut the pins to just barely above the bait and hot glue the balsa to the bottom of your mold tray or pan

When the mold is dry the wood will pop off or break off either way your bait doesn't move

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I have made a 2 part pop mold. Pours well without vents and makes a great bait.

I just lay the baits on their side in the pop and wait for it to harden. Be advised you must make your pop thick like pancake batter to lay a bait down without it sinking.

Once hardened, remove baits, coat all areas EXCEPT bait cavity with vaseline. Re-insert baits into cavities and por you other layer of pop on top. Pour slowly and form on end of the container to the other end. No stopping and starting or you will get bubbles.

Wait about 15-20 minutes and remove your mold... Dry and coat...

Pour baits!!! :-) Here is a final result...

swimmsenko.jpg

Jim

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I made a one piece mold for that bait and im happy with it. The 2 piece looks nicer but the fish don't care. I'm not all sold on that design theres too much salt for the tail to move naturally. Even with no salt the bait has to be moving fast for the tail to swim. I stepped up to a slender swim bait that has more weight on the forward side. I fish deep (25 feet) in salt water it just fits better for me

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Jim

How do you get a flat and straight bait when you lay it into the plaster or doesn't it matter? Do you coat the original with worm oil or anything before you put it into the plaster? Any tips on mixing the plaster to avoid bubbles?

Where dose one find Iconelli heads with the tungsten weight poured on the hook.

I'm using Calhoun plastic and wondering if I should use softer or not to get the right tall action.

Thanks Gibby

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Gibby... I just took four out of the package and layed them aside real straight for a day or 2. It really doesn't matter that they are super straight when you make the mold though. When you de-mold the baits after you pour them, just lay them straight. They will be fine!!!

No need to coat the original worm with anything, the plaster will not stick to it.

Tips on the plaster are...Use luke warm water...not cold and not hot. Be sure to add the plaster to the water and then stir. Never add the water to the plaster. Once you make your cup of plaster, bounce it on the counter or table a few times, the bubbles will rise out. pour the amount you need into your container and bounce that again on the counter or table. more bubbles will rise out. Some bubbles are going to be there regardless but you can fill them later with a drop or two of plaster or with whatever you are coating your mold with.

I think I bought the IKE heads at tacklewarehouse.com... Several places carry them. I have heard some guys complain that the wire is to light in the hooks but so far, so good for me.

I used Calhoun's super soft on mine and they swim perfect, never roll or twist!!

Jim

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Thats right...water putty, durabond, resin, carved wood coated with Devcon, RTV... I have tried lots of things. Whatever you get good with, stick with it.

I can mold anything out of pop and get a great prototype in no time!! I make a lot of molds for tournaments and one-time baits. Ex... going down to Harris Chain of Lakes at the end of the month and have molded a 16" snake.. Should make for a real HAWG hunting bait!!!

Jim

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